Monday, November 23, 2009

2007 EX noLeather 38K $16K

http://www.carmax.com/enUS/view-car/default.html?AVi=0&id=6204605&D=60&ASTc=accord%20ex&zip=62525&sM=NA-40000&sY=2006-2008&pD=0&pI=0&pT=400&pC=200&pB=0&No=0&Ep=homepage:homepage&Rp=R&PP=20&sV=List&Us=14&CD=240+9&Q=7d73c634-6899-4722-8a1f-6cae7891a0f7

2007 Honda Accord EX 4D SedanSunroof(s), Air Conditioning, Cruise Control more...
Miles38K
Drive2WD
TransmissionAutomatic
ExteriorTaupe
InteriorTan Cloth
Stock #6204605

2007 EX certified noLeather $16K Honda on Grand

Certified 2007 Honda Accord EX Sedan
$15,988

Price$15,988
Mileage36,933
Body StyleSedan
Exterior Color
Moonroof
Interior ColorGray
Engine4 Cylinder Gasoline
Transmission5 Speed Automatic
Drive Type2 wheel drive - front
Fuel TypeGasoline
DoorsFour Door
Stock No.P1504

Saturday, November 21, 2009

Why buy Honda Certified?

Warranty

Every Honda Certified Used Car comes with peace of mind: one of the most extensive used-car warranties in the business. So you can drive off the lot feeling confident about your purchase.

These warranties cover:
Major engine and transmission components, except for standard maintenance items, body glass and interior.

The repair or replacement of any covered part that is defective in material or workmanship under normal use. With a $0 deductible.

Powertrain coverage for 7-years/100,000-miles (whichever comes first) from the vehicle's original in-service date.

Non-Powertrain coverage for 12-month/12,000-miles (whichever comes first) from the original warranty expiration date, or if the original warranty has expired, from the Honda Certified Used Cars purchase date.

Inspection

Every Honda Certified Used Car goes through our certification process to make sure it lives up to Honda's high standards. And only well-maintained Honda vehicles are eligible for certification, a process that includes:


An exhaustive 150-point mechanical and appearance inspection, performed by the dealer technician, in which all major vehicles systems are scrutinized, including brakes, engine, drivetrain, steering, suspension, tires, wheels, exhaust system and vehicle interior and exterior.

A process where Honda-trained technicians recondition any component that does not meet our standards, or replace it with Genuine Honda parts.

All scheduled maintenance services are brought up-to-date.

A free CARFAX Vehicle History report to assure that your Honda Certified Used Car does not contain any DMV-reported incidents such as salvage, fire, flood damage, odometer problems or lemon history.

Friday, November 20, 2009

McGrath Acura 2007 EXL leather 17Kmi $17K

2007 Honda Accord EX-L - $17,491 Dealer: McGrath Acura of Westmont Call: 888-487-6585


Mileage: 17,167
Body Style: Sedan
Exterior Color: Carbon Bronze Pearl
Interior Color: Ivory
Stock #: K3312A
VIN: 1HGCM56857A163082
Engine: 2.4L I4
Transmission: AUTO 5SPD
Drivetrain: FWD
Doors: 4
Wheelbase: 108"

Standard Equipment: Fuel Consumption: Highway: 34, Remote Power Door Locks, Power Windows, Cruise Controls On Steering Wheel, Cruise Control, 4-Wheel ABS Brakes, Front Ventilated Disc Brakes, 1st And 2nd Row Curtain Head Airbags, Passenger Airbag, Side Airbag, Power Glass Sunroof, Audio System Security, In-Dash 6-Disc CD Player, Am/Fm/Satellite Radio, Total Number Of Speakers: 6, Privacy Glass: Light, Silver Alloy Rims, Wheel Diameter: 16, Wheel Width: 6.5, Leather Steering Wheel Trim, Leather Shift Knob Trim, Metal-Look Dash Trim, Metal-Look Door Trim, Metal-Look Center Console Trim, External Temperature Display, Tachometer, Power Remote Driver Mirror Adjustment, Heated Driver Mirror, Heated Passenger Mirror, Power Remote Passenger Mirror Adjustment, Dual Illuminated Vanity Mirrors, Daytime Running Lights, Driver And Passenger Heated-Cushion, Driver Heated-Seatback, Remote Window Operation, Audio Controls On Steering Wheel, Power Remote Trunk Release, Front Reading Lights, Anti-Theft Alarm System, Leather Seat Upholstery, Bucket Front Seats, Rear Bench, Fold Forward Seatback Rear Seats, Rear Seats Center Armrest With Pass-Thru, Tilt And Telescopic Steering Wheel, Speed-Proportional Power Steering, Suspension Class: Regular, Interior Air Conditioning Air Filtration, Automatic Front Air Conditioning, Dual Front Air Conditioning Zones, Cargo Area Light, Max Cargo Capacity: 14, Fuel Type: Regular Unleaded, Fuel Capacity: 17.1, Instrumentation: Low Fuel Level, Clock: In-Radio, Headlights Off Auto Delay, Coil Front Spring, Regular Front Stabilizer Bar, Independent Front Suspension Classification, Double Wishbone Front Suspension, Four-Wheel Independent Suspension, Coil Rear Spring, Rear Stabilizer Bar: Regular, Independent Rear Suspension, Multi-Link Rear Suspension, Front And Rear Suspension Stabilizer Bars, Variable Intermittent Front Wipers, Steel Spare Wheel Rim, Spare Tire Mount Location: Inside Under Cargo, Grill With Chrome Bar, Overall Length: 191.1

Ohio: Lindsay Honda 2007 EX 25Kmi $17,6K

1-888-484-5097

Price
$17,677
Mileage
25,076
Body Style
Sedan
Exterior Color
Carbon Bronze Pearl
Interior Color
Ivory W/Leather Seat Trim
Engine
4 Cylinder Gasoline
Transmission
5 Speed Automatic
Drive Type
2 wheel drive - front
Fuel Type
Gasoline
Doors
Four Door
Stock No.
13842
------------------------------------------------------
Retail Price $21,995*
Internet Blowout $18,877*

Condition:Pre-Owned Clear Title
Mileage:19,824
Stock No:D10-408A
Transmission:5 Spd Automatic
Engine:2.4L L4 MPI SOHC 16V
Warranty:Warranty Available
Exterior Color:Desert Mist Metallic
Interior Color:Ivory w/Leather Seat Trim

Honda of Joliet certi 2007 exl 27Kmi $19K

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=c&car_id=262739485&dealer_id=342803&car_year=2007&rdm=1258738571650&lastStartYear=1981&model=ACCORD&num_records=25&systime=&make2=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&mod_bookmark_id=29599200&start_year=2007&keywordsfyc=__ZXg%2C__&keywordsrep=101120&engine=4 Cylinder&certified=&body_code=8&fuel=&awsp=false&search_type=both&distance=300&marketZipError=false&search_lang=en&showZipError=n&make=HONDA&keywords_display=ex&color=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&min_price=&body_style=SEDAN&drive=&default_sort=priceASC&seller_type=b&max_mileage=30000&style_flag=2&sort_type=distance&address=62525&feature4=leather seats&advanced=y&end_year=2010&doors=&transmission=&max_price=22000&cardist=127&standard=false

1-866-466-5945


Price
$18,995
Mileage
27,600
Body Style
Sedan
Exterior Color
Graphite Pearl
Interior Color
Gray
Engine
4 Cylinder Gasoline
Transmission
5 Speed Automatic
Drive Type
2 wheel drive - front
Fuel Type
Gasoline
Doors
Four Door

Power Seat,Multi CD Player,Power Door Locks,Power Windows,Alloy Wheels,Air Conditioning,Tilt Steering Wheel,Cruise Control,Keyless Entry,Dual Power Mirrors,Power Moonroof,Heated Seat(s),Dual Air Bags,Rear Window Defroster,Leather Upholstery

OHare Auto 2006 EXLV6 36Kmi $19K

http://www.carsdirect.com/used_cars/vehicle_detail/ul125567565/Honda/Accord%20Sdn

1509 River Rd
Des Plaines , IL 60018
http://www.ohareautogroup.com/

2006 Honda Accord Sdn
$18,991
Trim:
EXLV6
Miles:
36,251
Transmission:
5-SPEED AUTOMATIC W/OD
Engine:
Gas V6 3.0L/183
Exterior:
Alabaster Silver Metallic
Interior:
Black
Doors:
4
Certified:
yes
VIN: 1HGCM66506A043152

ONE OWNER 100% AUTOCHECK GUARANTEED !!!NON-SMOKER ~ VERY CLEAN INTERIOR this vehicle comes with an extended CERTIFIED PRE-OWNED VEHICLE WARRANTY BUY WITH CONFIDENCE !!! All of our vehicles are reconditioned using a strict 150 POINT MECHANICAL INSPECTION *** for more INFORMATION and AVAILABILITY PLEASE CONTACT MARK J at 1-847-553-3162***

STL Fusz 2007 EX $18K


ToyotaofWestCounty 2006 EX $15K SOLD




Planet Honda Matteson, IL 2006 EX $15K


http://hondacertifiedsearch.com/cuvphase2/EntryServlet?selModel=Accord Sedan&entryId=18161702398345845025&zipCode=61801&selRange=250&selModel=Accord+Sedan&selCategory=Any&trans=on&transmission=Any&selYearStart=2006&selYearEnd=all&selPrice=20000&orderBy=model&sortBy=ascending&startIndex=1

Thursday, November 19, 2009

Chicago Honda dealers $16-19K




Honda on Grand $17K




Twin City 2006 EXL V6 $18K




Carmax 2007 $19K


BOB LINDSAY HONDA OF PEORIA $18K

BOB LINDSAY HONDA OF PEORIA
From: Larry Cook (Internet Manager)

Rod Kahn,We have the following Honda Accords for sale with the Leather Seats in the years 2006 to 2008:

2008 Accord EX-L - 4 cylinder - 34,000 miles - $19,958.00 - Honda Certified
2007 Accord EX-L - 4 cylinder - 39,000 miles - $17,987.00 - Honda Certified
2007 Accord EX-L - V-6 - 25,000 miles - $18,896.00 - Honda Certified
2007 Accord EX-L - V-6 - 27,000 miles - $19,388.00 - Honda Certified

If I can answer specific questions regarding these vehicles please contact me at your convenience.Sincerely,Larry CookInternet ManagerPhone 309-692-3200Bob Lindsay Honda of Peoriawww.boblindsayhonda.com

SpiritToyota STL $18K




Newer Avalons







Newer Camrys







Newer Accords







Tuesday, November 10, 2009

CRV--changing the differential oil




Supplies Required: (Photo 2) (Available at your dealer or HandA)


A) 2 Quarts of Honda Dual Pump Fluid II (Capacity of the 2007 is 1.3 quarts)


B) 2 Crush Washers, 20 mm, Honda Part Number 94109 – 20000




Caution! You must use Honda Dual Pump Fluid II. Using any other fluid will result in the destruction of the clutch plates in the rear differential. (Photo 3)




Tools Required: (Photo 2)


A) 3/8" ratchet


B) 3/8" extension 3” long (optional)


C) collection pan – big enough to hold 1.3 quarts (I cut down a windshield washer fluid jug, milk jugs are too flimsy)


D) rags or paper towels


E) 5/8" Outside Diameter Hose 10’ long Weber brand available at Lowes.


F) Funnel and hose clamp also available at Lowes (Items E & F were $6.00 total)


G) Scotch Bright or a pan scrubber




Time Required: 30 to 45 minutes




Procedure:


Step 1. Change into some grubby clothes. To protect your skin from contact with the fluid, wear oil resistant gloves.


Step 2. Shut off your engine, make sure the car is in park and the brake is set.


Step 3. Collect your supplies and tools. You don't need to jack the car up. It is a little harder without the car elevated, but it is much safer. Do not jack up your car unless you are very knowledgeable on how to raise the car and support it safely.


Step 4. (Photo 4). Gather your drain pan, ratchet, 3” extension, and paper towels. Let’s take a peek in the nether regions and see what we are getting into. Photo 4 shows the rear differential and the locations of the fill and drain plugs. Each plug has a square 3/8” hole that matches the square drive of a 3/8” drive ratchet. We will use a short extension to get the ratchet head out away from the housing. Personally I hate that “righty tighty lefty loosey” nonsense. Before you climb under, set the ratchet so that it turns the extension in the counter-clockwise direction, and ratchets in the clockwise direction. Under the car, facing the wrong way, it is easy to get it backwards.


Step 5. (Photo 5) Take a piece of Scotch Bright or a pan scour pad and clean the areas around each plug. The goal is not to make it shiny, but to knock off the loose crud so that it won’t end up in your differential. Caution! If you have driven the vehicle in the past few minutes, feel the differential housing. If it feels hot to the touch, let the differential cool some more before working on it.


Step 6. (Photo 6) OK, now the fun starts. I was totally amazed at how tight both plugs were. Make sure your ratchet is set to spin the extension Counter Clockwise and ratchet in the Clockwise direction. You really don’t want to tighten this plug. We are going to loosen the fill plug first. Why? There have been reports of being able to get the drain plug out but not the fill…a bit of a sticky wicket one would think. Alright, put the square end of the extension into the plug. Try to pay some attention to where your knuckles will end up when the plug breaks loose. Pusssshhh! Agggghhhh! Crack! Sounds like a gun going off. Use one of the paper towels to wipe up the blood from your knuckles. Don’t take the plug out, just loosen it.




Step 12 (Photo 12 a & 12b) When you open your bottle of Genuine Honda Dual Pump Fluid II (the only thing you can use), be sure to remove all of the foil seal. While her ladyship, the lovely Dame Black Pearl provided precision pouring (photo 12 a), I manned the nether regions to keep an eye on the progress (photo 12 b). Pour in the entire first quart. Then slowly add the 0.3 (9.6 ounces) of the second quart. Somewhere between 8 to 10 ounces, it started to run out of the fill hole.


Step 13 Place a new crush washer on the fill plug (photo 13 a). When the fluid runs out the fill hole, pull out the fill hose and re-install the fill plug with the new crush washer. Torque the plug to 35 ft-lbs. (photo 13 b). Remove the fill hose from the nether regions of your V. Use care not to slop fluid on the exhaust pipe or rear brake disk and calipers.


Step 14 Tightly recap the unused portion of remaining second quart. Drain the residual oil from your fill hose and store it in plastic bag so it doesn’t get dirty. Clean up the mess. Recycle the fluid. If your other scheduled services are done, reset the Maintenance Minder. (Photo 14) Record the mileage and date in your maintenance records. Keep your receipts to protect your warranty.


Photo 15: The used oil. Hmmmm! Not the greatest looking stuff. It didn’t smell bad. I checked the bottom of the pan and there was no particulate. This oil has 16,000 miles. Suburban driving, no off road, no immersions in water, and a little winter action but not excessive. I have had no noise problems.

Monday, November 9, 2009

Camry oil pan gasket

All you have to do is: Remove all bolts holding it on after you drain the oil from it...I don't use no kind of gasket sealer on oil pans...Only around the front and rear seals of it,I clean both areas with denatured alcohol before installing.Use the Fram brand rubber gasket set with the metal inserts in it for the best seal.

The pan is not hard to remove, you do have to move the exhaust also and there is 1 bracket that needs to be removed.The gasket is FIPG (Form in place gasket), that is what Toyota uses.It is just fine to use that.
Source(s):
10 Year Toyota Master

I don't think the sealer is the problem but rather the application of it.Make sure that at the rear of the oil pan the sealer is applied all the way across the sealing area, I have seen many mechanics, including myself make this mistake,if you apply the sealer just to the middle it will leak at the rear of the pan because of the way the rear mainseal housing lines up with the oil pan, take a close look.

http://www.ehow.com/how_4521017_drop-oil-pan-toyota-camry.html

Use a jack to raise the vehicle off the ground and support it using a jack stand. Follow the jack manufacturer's directions for proper use.
Step 2
Drain the oil from the Camry by sliding under the vehicle and locating the oil pan in the center portion of the engine block, just center of the front tires. Place an oil drip pan below the oil pan, use a wrench to unscrew and remove the oil drain plug, and allow all oil to drain before replacing the drain plug.
Step 3
Open the hood of the vehicle and remove the negative battery cable located on the battery box towards the very front of the vehicle on the left-hand side. Use a wrench to disconnect the bolts holding it in place.
Step 4
Remove the fender apron seal, under cover and the front exhaust pipe bracket from the oil pan using a wrench to remove the bolts holding these in place. Use a wrench to remove the flywheel housing undercover by removing the bolts holding it in place.
Step 5
Unscrew each of the oil pan bolts located around the outer edge of the oil pan. Support the oil pan with one hand while removing the bolts as the oil pan will fall slightly.
Step 6
Disconnect the oil strainer and gasket before removing the oil pan. To pull the oil pan off, remove the baffle plate from the oil pan using a wrench.


I own a 1996 Toyota Camry and it cost me about $20. The job is easy enough that you yourself can do it, rather then paying a mechanic an arm and a leg. Your best bet is to put the car up on ramps.. If you don't have ramps try to borrow them from a friend. Jacks are too unsturdy for a job like this. Afer you have the vechicle safety up on ramps then you must first drain your oil pan. The plug is located right on the bottom of the oil pan, just unscrew it. Be sure to have a pan underneath to catch the oil. Then after all the oil is drained you can now remove the exaust pipe that has blocked a part of the oil pan. If you follow the exaust all the way to the front where it ends you will see three bolts holding it onto the car.. Remove these bolts. You will want to make sure you have purchased not only the oil pan gasket and sealer for the gasket.. But also the sealer and gasket for the exaust.. These only run about $5-10 each. Then after removing the exaust push it to the side.. Then you may now start to unbolt the twenty something bolts that connect the oil pan.. After doing this be sure to scrap off any remaining gasket left on the oil pan... The stores sell gasket remover to make it easier to scrap off. Then apply the sealer directly to the oil pan then add the gasket.. Then put the new oil pan gasket and pan back on the car.. And that is all... This process takes about One hour if done correctly.. One hour from start to finsh.. Hope this has helped you in some way.

I know i have a bad cv joint. My question is this causing the rotating road noise coming from the front. It sounds like a bad tire but the tires are new.

cv joints normally cause a knocking noise when turning, the noise you mention may be the joint, but it may be a wheel bearing going out. it's really hard to know without hearing the noise, i would get it diagnosed and have both repaired at the same time.

Sunday, November 8, 2009

Camry getting old

Changed the oil today, and after refilling the crankcase, I started the engine. Oil started dripping on the ground. Turned out to be from the oil pan gasket. Tightened it up, and put in oil thickener.

Driver side CV boot looks cracked, and throwing grease. Wouldn't you know it, one side goes, the other side is right behind.

Maybe that is the grinding road noise we've been hearing.
Or is that wheel bearings?