Toyota P0440 CEL

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/155-2nd-generation-2000-2004/541162-2000-avalon-evap-problem-code-p0440.html

code mystery solved
Thought I would share my experience tracking down root cause of this code.

P0440 = vacuum leak

There are many place to look.
1. I replaced all suspect hoses
2. checked all vacuum actuators with mityvac (they should all hold a vacuum, if not their junk)
3. checked all vsvs for proper operation 4 of these on car up front. 1 mounted on backside of air cleaner cleaner (normally open), 2 near fuel rail (2 the same type normally open), 3rd was suspect (should be normally closed [it is blue])
4. to fix the blue vsv I simply disasembled it and gave the spring a bit of a stretch. then reassembled and it worked like a charm.
5. The is another vsv located on the right side of the charcoal canister (located between gas tank and spare tire) This vsv also proved to be suspect testing with mityvac.

Replacing the rear vsv and fixing the blue vsv, solved the issue.

Note to test these use 2 wires and a switch from the battery, then connect wires to the vsvs.

The brown and black vsvs will not completely hold a vacuum the others will. the brown black simply divert air either through the round barrel like fiter on the end or to the output tube. The blue vsv, the one mounted to air cleaner and the one on the charcoal canister all hold vacuum when being tested.

Hope that helps someone.

You can also do a search for 'P0440 and vsv" for more info on Toyotanation.
I have had the P0440 problem on two of my cars and I have installed the VSV near the canister where it is only one bolt or nut and looking right at you. I think the part was $70 at the dealer. I am assuming your gas cap is a Toyota product.



 It looks like the VSV Canister Closed Valve is the valve that switches off the air intake for a vacuum test. The VSV Evap is the purge line. I'm still not quite clear on what the VSV pressure switching valve does, but it is located on the canister. The other 2 valves are under the hood. I guess I'll test them with a 9 volt battery to make sure they are working and listen for the click of thesolenoid. I'd like to check the pressure sensor for about 1.5VDC with no vacuum and the filler cap off.

I think the pressure switching valve is actually to vent excessive pressure if triggered by the vapor pressure sensor. It does not allow air to flow through it unless it is powered.

The CCV valve I believe helps to maintain a vacuum in the evap canister and the fuel tank. I believe it opens to allow air inlet if the canister is actively purging. Then it closes just before the canister stops purging so there's a bit of vacuum in the system.

The CCV valve is the one that most likely has failed.

Hold up, have you even replaced the CCV valve yet? You should do that first before anything else. If you have successfully fixed the problem, the check engine light will go out on it's own.

 I guess that wouldn't be a bad place to start because it's fairly inexpensive and looks easy to replace. 

Most common failures are fuel caps and carbon canisters. It is a waste of time to just try and replace a vapor pressure sensor or, VSV as they come with the canister assembly. The non replaceable vent valves on the canister fail and leak. Have replaced lots of canisters and fuel caps. Hardly any CCVs or purge valves. If you live in the salt belt look for rusted hard lines in the system.

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A simple fix is a loose or bad fuel cap - as if I would everget that lucky! One way I knew we had a leak is because that sucking sound when you remove the gas cap to refuel had stopped happening - another clue!
There are 3 electrically operated valves in the system - they only cost about $40 and are easy to replace. 
Taking it to the dealer will result (almost certainly) in them NOT just replacing one of these - they will want
 to change the whole canister - $325 parts + a million dollars labor of course. I cannot afford that so I started to look at mine
http://www.findonefindall.com/toyota-sienna/toyota_sienna_evap_P0446.htm

Mine, of course,  was NOT the electrical valve VSV (Toyota Part # 90910-12264) -despite the P0446 code which specifies  this.
   I had a perforated or torn air valve at the front of the canister - which you cannot buy separately of course!

   Here's a picture of them - they come off - but you cannot buy them on their own
  - You have to buy a whole new canister $340 - Rats! Toyota Part # 77740-08042 (which replaced 77740-08041) 

Things to check first if you are getting P0440, P0441, P0442, P0446
1) Make sure the gas cap is ON (and "clicks" ) and is the correct Toyota Gas Cap (aftermarket may not work). Clear the codes and run for a while. See if codes come back.
2) Make sure the tube to the electrical valve on the air cleaner is still on - Many clumsy oil change places pull these off accidentally (or on purpose- who knows?)
3) Test and inspect all the rubber lines under the hood and connecting to the canister.
4) Test the VSV Electrical valve on the canister - put 12V across it using 2 small alligator clips and wires (RadioShack) It should click and let air through.
5) Test the other 2 valves under the hood the same way (the one on the air cleaner works backwards i.e. Power = Block Airflow)
6) If you can - test the air valves (seen above) -
7) Bend over - get your wallet out and buy a new Charcoal canister - ouch! $300+ If you are still getting the "whoosh" on taking the cap off, maybe the Pressure sensor in the tank is bad.

Changing plugs on 2001 Avalon V6

2002 TOYOTA AVALON SPARK PLUG REPLACEMENT


This information is FYI. The car manual says that the car comes with IRIDIUM Spark Plugs that need changing at 120,000 miles. My car never missed a beat – but at 124,000 I decided to change the plugs. I removed the factory NGK IRIDIUM IFR6A 11 plugs from the engine – all where extremely clean, with some sign of wear on the center electrode. They probably would have lasted a lot longer, however I was glad I pulled them as two were a challenge to loosen up.
I searched out the internet and found:
Original plug NGK IRIDIUM IFR6A 11 no longer available – new part is IFR6T 11
Also listed is the DENSO IK20 (5304) These were about two dollars more (about ten dollars each) – so I bought DENSO plugs.
The front bank is easy – I used a 5/8 inch spark plug wrench with appropriate extenders to unscrew and pull the plugs out of their holes. For replacement – I used a regular long 5/8 inch socket as if you use the spark plug wrench – I couldn’t pull out the socket due to the rubber form in the socket and the extenders would just disconnect leaving the socket attached to the plug.
The rear bank – I reached around from the right side of the engine and pulled loose the rubber hose for the PCV valve(SQUEEZE THE CLAMP WITH OUR FINGERS) . Then remove the PVC valve from the left end of the engine. I also removed two ground wires bolted onto the plate on the end of the intake manifold, plus I unbolted the small assembly connected to the intake manifold plate. These two steps give ample access to removing the rear plugs from the left side and the right side.
While fearing this effort – it turned out to be straight forward and relatively easy. I have put 5,000 miles on these new DENSO plugs – car seems to have more power and I am happy with the change. Total cost was about $60 plus cost of new PCV valve. For those that fall for the dealer saying the plugs need changing at 60k or 90k ----
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/avalon/111461-spark-plug-replacement/
===============
I changed them on my camry V6 a few months ago. I can see why people remove the plenum to get to the right bank but i guess its not impossible if you have the right tools.
Without removing plenum, I found The coil pack on # 4 has to be removed first, the pcv hose too. And there are two wires bolted to the plenum with a nut which are in the way and have to be removed. Then you can access the tough one, #5 plug behind the plenum. I accessed #4 and #5 from the passenger side, leaning on the fender which i covered with a towel first.

Harbor freight has a long long spark plug socket that is tailor made for this and it is $5. I found my sockets are either too long or too short even when used together. Its not fun but can be done.

Re the notorious #5 plug it took me about 30 minutes for this one plug. I used a regular foam insert spark plug socket, one small 3/8" extension and one wobble socket adaptor (which i could have gotten by without, but it made the extension just long enough).

And the most important tip: tape the sockets and extension together so they dont pull apart! I taped them together with duct tape and pulled on them to make sure they would not slip apart. Because the last thing i wanted to be doing is fishing for a spark plug socket back there where you can barely reach.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1748838
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http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_to_change_the_3_rear_spark_plugs_for_the_2000_Toyota_Avalon_you_cannot_get_the_one_on_the_right_from_the_passenger_direction_out_because_it_is_blocked_by_the_firewall_when_pulling_plastic_out


To change spark plug first remove coil over connecting clip ensuring to depress connector release. Next remove coil over retaining bolts. Remove coil over carefully directing coil toward driver side until rubber end able to flex out of sparkplug access tube. Remove sparkplug using sparkplug socket with rubber insert. Had to remove ratchet to gain enough clearance. At this point you should be able to remove sparkplug by tilting extension & socket toward drivers side of car. Then lay horizontal & remove toward passenger side of car. If unable to gain access in this manner you probably have too long an extension. Take care as not to damage spark plug coil over as they are considerably expensive.

2007 Camry brake clunk when starting out

http://www.justanswer.com/questions/1lb1t-purchased-new-2009-se-camry-last-week-right-away-started-having

right away started having noise when brake pedal released. You are stopped with foot on brake pedal, then when you take your foot off the brake pedal to go, the pedal comes up as usual but makes a big thumping/clunking noise as if it is hitting something when it reaches it's final resting position. Read more: http://www.justanswer.com/questions/1lb1t-purchased-new-2009-se-camry-last-week-right-away-started-having#ixzz0pqHFswPm

ABS self check mode, the ABS system runs a "self" check" every time the car is started and makes a "clunk" noise from the front under the hood, this takes place everytime you start the car and make the initial movement, it is also more noticible with colder temperatures Read more: http://www.justanswer.com/questions/1lb1t-purchased-new-2009-se-camry-last-week-right-away-started-having#ixzz0pqGlNogz

All 2009 Camry models come equipped with a standard anti-lock brake system (ABS), Electronic Brake-force Distribution (EBD) and Brake Assist (BA). That means a lot of complex systems trying to work together. There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for the 2008 model Camry (no bulletins out yet for 2009 model) I would suggest that you make sure the dealer is aware of it. The TSB has to do with the ABS calibration in the braking system, and perhaps there is an adjustment that can be made. The number and description of the TSB is: SB0020-08 MAR 08 ABS/TCS - Zero Point Calibration Information Read more: http://www.justanswer.com/questions/1lb1t-purchased-new-2009-se-camry-last-week-right-away-started-having#ixzz0pqH7pSzH

I get the same thing on mine. Only after the engine is started and you hit about 15 mph. There is something of a "clunk" type sound. But its a system doing an adjustment. The manual even mentions it.Pg 443..."You may hear a click or motor sound in the engine compartment for a few seconds when the engine is started or just after the vehicle begins to move. This means the anti-lock brake system is in the self-check mode, and does not indicate a malfunction".The same kind of paragraph appears in the section that describes VSC etc.If anyone wants to hear this noise, start your engine, lock the doors manually (this eliminates the lock sounds), then start driving. You should hear a "thunk" type sound when you hit about 15 MPH.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=202157

My wife's 2006 Honda CR-V, and my 2007 Tacoma both do this, only once at initial takeoff. It's the ABS system doing a self-check, don't worry about it.

Yeah I get the clunk at take off, but nothing after that...

ts the VSC/TRAC/ABS self check....it happens once you get over 10 mph or so after every time you start the car.

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