Monday, November 9, 2009

Camry oil pan gasket

All you have to do is: Remove all bolts holding it on after you drain the oil from it...I don't use no kind of gasket sealer on oil pans...Only around the front and rear seals of it,I clean both areas with denatured alcohol before installing.Use the Fram brand rubber gasket set with the metal inserts in it for the best seal.

The pan is not hard to remove, you do have to move the exhaust also and there is 1 bracket that needs to be removed.The gasket is FIPG (Form in place gasket), that is what Toyota uses.It is just fine to use that.
Source(s):
10 Year Toyota Master

I don't think the sealer is the problem but rather the application of it.Make sure that at the rear of the oil pan the sealer is applied all the way across the sealing area, I have seen many mechanics, including myself make this mistake,if you apply the sealer just to the middle it will leak at the rear of the pan because of the way the rear mainseal housing lines up with the oil pan, take a close look.

http://www.ehow.com/how_4521017_drop-oil-pan-toyota-camry.html

Use a jack to raise the vehicle off the ground and support it using a jack stand. Follow the jack manufacturer's directions for proper use.
Step 2
Drain the oil from the Camry by sliding under the vehicle and locating the oil pan in the center portion of the engine block, just center of the front tires. Place an oil drip pan below the oil pan, use a wrench to unscrew and remove the oil drain plug, and allow all oil to drain before replacing the drain plug.
Step 3
Open the hood of the vehicle and remove the negative battery cable located on the battery box towards the very front of the vehicle on the left-hand side. Use a wrench to disconnect the bolts holding it in place.
Step 4
Remove the fender apron seal, under cover and the front exhaust pipe bracket from the oil pan using a wrench to remove the bolts holding these in place. Use a wrench to remove the flywheel housing undercover by removing the bolts holding it in place.
Step 5
Unscrew each of the oil pan bolts located around the outer edge of the oil pan. Support the oil pan with one hand while removing the bolts as the oil pan will fall slightly.
Step 6
Disconnect the oil strainer and gasket before removing the oil pan. To pull the oil pan off, remove the baffle plate from the oil pan using a wrench.


I own a 1996 Toyota Camry and it cost me about $20. The job is easy enough that you yourself can do it, rather then paying a mechanic an arm and a leg. Your best bet is to put the car up on ramps.. If you don't have ramps try to borrow them from a friend. Jacks are too unsturdy for a job like this. Afer you have the vechicle safety up on ramps then you must first drain your oil pan. The plug is located right on the bottom of the oil pan, just unscrew it. Be sure to have a pan underneath to catch the oil. Then after all the oil is drained you can now remove the exaust pipe that has blocked a part of the oil pan. If you follow the exaust all the way to the front where it ends you will see three bolts holding it onto the car.. Remove these bolts. You will want to make sure you have purchased not only the oil pan gasket and sealer for the gasket.. But also the sealer and gasket for the exaust.. These only run about $5-10 each. Then after removing the exaust push it to the side.. Then you may now start to unbolt the twenty something bolts that connect the oil pan.. After doing this be sure to scrap off any remaining gasket left on the oil pan... The stores sell gasket remover to make it easier to scrap off. Then apply the sealer directly to the oil pan then add the gasket.. Then put the new oil pan gasket and pan back on the car.. And that is all... This process takes about One hour if done correctly.. One hour from start to finsh.. Hope this has helped you in some way.

I know i have a bad cv joint. My question is this causing the rotating road noise coming from the front. It sounds like a bad tire but the tires are new.

cv joints normally cause a knocking noise when turning, the noise you mention may be the joint, but it may be a wheel bearing going out. it's really hard to know without hearing the noise, i would get it diagnosed and have both repaired at the same time.

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