Saturday, January 30, 2010
Friday, January 29, 2010
Mike Gerber
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124410
First of all, there is an easy test to determine if it actually is the starter contacts. The next time it fails to start, have someone hold the key in the start position while you hit the starter solenoid with a rubber mallet or a small hammer. Don't break it, just tap it a bit. If it's the contacts, this slight jarring should make the starter engage and crank over the engine.
I just replaced the starter on my 98 4 cylinder 5SFE engine a few months ago. Should be exactly the same as your's. Mine had 90,000 miles on it. It's really not too hard. Should take you about 30-45 minutes to remove it the first time you do it. Remove the battery, the battery tray and the bracket holding the cruise control on (3 bolts if I remember correctly) so you can move the cruise control out of the way. Some people like to remove the air cleaner box to give them a bit more room, but I was able to do it without removing that.
Then remove the 2 modular electrical connectors and the nut under the rubber boot holding the lead from the battery. Sometimes this boot and nut is on the front side of the starter and some times it is on the backside. It just depends on whether the car was delivered in what Toyota considers a cold weather climate. The cold weather climate cars have the boot and nut on the back side. Then there are 2 long 14MM head bolts that hold the actual starter in. The front one can be removed with just a wrench but you will need a socket and about a 4-6 inch extension to reach the back one. One this is all removed, just snake the starter out of there. You can then remove the solenoid for replacement of the brushes.
At 90,000 miles I opted to just have my whole starter professionally rebuilt. If you can find a reputable auto electrical rebuilder in your area I think this is the best way to go. IMHO, you get a better rebuild done when compared to getting an off the shelf rebuilt unit from most auto parts stores. Cost is about the same. It ran me $125. At 40,000 miles however, you may just want to replace your solenoid contacts. It's really your choice.
First of all, there is an easy test to determine if it actually is the starter contacts. The next time it fails to start, have someone hold the key in the start position while you hit the starter solenoid with a rubber mallet or a small hammer. Don't break it, just tap it a bit. If it's the contacts, this slight jarring should make the starter engage and crank over the engine.
I just replaced the starter on my 98 4 cylinder 5SFE engine a few months ago. Should be exactly the same as your's. Mine had 90,000 miles on it. It's really not too hard. Should take you about 30-45 minutes to remove it the first time you do it. Remove the battery, the battery tray and the bracket holding the cruise control on (3 bolts if I remember correctly) so you can move the cruise control out of the way. Some people like to remove the air cleaner box to give them a bit more room, but I was able to do it without removing that.
Then remove the 2 modular electrical connectors and the nut under the rubber boot holding the lead from the battery. Sometimes this boot and nut is on the front side of the starter and some times it is on the backside. It just depends on whether the car was delivered in what Toyota considers a cold weather climate. The cold weather climate cars have the boot and nut on the back side. Then there are 2 long 14MM head bolts that hold the actual starter in. The front one can be removed with just a wrench but you will need a socket and about a 4-6 inch extension to reach the back one. One this is all removed, just snake the starter out of there. You can then remove the solenoid for replacement of the brushes.
At 90,000 miles I opted to just have my whole starter professionally rebuilt. If you can find a reputable auto electrical rebuilder in your area I think this is the best way to go. IMHO, you get a better rebuild done when compared to getting an off the shelf rebuilt unit from most auto parts stores. Cost is about the same. It ran me $125. At 40,000 miles however, you may just want to replace your solenoid contacts. It's really your choice.
Camry/Bad Starter Relay?
1992 Camry/Bad Startet Relay?
I have a 1992 Camry V6. I have starting problems. Nothing happens when turn the key, but have lights & power. It is Intermittent. Even when it does happen it is usually a short time before It WILL start. I have a brand new battery and the ignition switch has been replaced. A few mechnics looked and tested and ruled out the starter and ignition safety switch. General consensus now is the starter relay. Has anyone had a similar problem, replaced a starter relay and wher is it? I was told hard to get to under the dash passenger side.... appreciate any imput
Melisa
According to the manual it looks like it's in the fuse box under the hood on the driver's side by the wheel well.
if it takes 4-5 times to crank the engine over, and it makes no noise before that (or a single "click" from the engine compartment, then your starter solenoid contacts are worn out. It's a common problem with the Denso starters, and can be fixed either with the solenoid contact kit or with a whole new starter. DIYers can replace the contacts for $20 or so, and a starter can be had for $100-150 plus labor. Most shops won't rebuild your starter for you, so don't be surprised if they only want to sell you a starter.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
I ordered a set of contacts from Roger Brown. Of course, with total disregard for the value of my own time, I actually removed my starter, noted the needed style of contacts, and reassembled and reinstalled the starter. The proper parts came promptly, but because I tightened everything up the starter worked fine (and has been working fine for the past year) I suppose my partly worn contacts were just loose. I know I have the parts around somewhere, but It would take at least an hour to dig them up.Don't waste your time like I did, if you are confortable doing this repair yourself, just order one of each (A, B, C & D) for US$19.50 and sell the unused ones back after you do the repair.
Check the connections to the starter. Solenoid wire, red power wire and ground cable for any signs of corrosion. Do the same for your battery terminals. If it looks bad, disconnect, wire brush them and re-assemble with dielectric grease.
Finally, I changed the starter solenoid contacts this weekend. But it was an effort to remove the starter. Had to remove the battery, then the air cleaner and also had to move aside the cruise control. Reused the plunger though after cleaning with a wire brush.
Before you give up on the starter check the battery & battery terminals. A bad (dirty) connection can give you click only situation. Can also be the grounding strap from the battery at the frame. Try a boost on the battery if you don't know how to check battery .
I have a 1992 Camry V6. I have starting problems. Nothing happens when turn the key, but have lights & power. It is Intermittent. Even when it does happen it is usually a short time before It WILL start. I have a brand new battery and the ignition switch has been replaced. A few mechnics looked and tested and ruled out the starter and ignition safety switch. General consensus now is the starter relay. Has anyone had a similar problem, replaced a starter relay and wher is it? I was told hard to get to under the dash passenger side.... appreciate any imput
Melisa
According to the manual it looks like it's in the fuse box under the hood on the driver's side by the wheel well.
if it takes 4-5 times to crank the engine over, and it makes no noise before that (or a single "click" from the engine compartment, then your starter solenoid contacts are worn out. It's a common problem with the Denso starters, and can be fixed either with the solenoid contact kit or with a whole new starter. DIYers can replace the contacts for $20 or so, and a starter can be had for $100-150 plus labor. Most shops won't rebuild your starter for you, so don't be surprised if they only want to sell you a starter.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
I ordered a set of contacts from Roger Brown. Of course, with total disregard for the value of my own time, I actually removed my starter, noted the needed style of contacts, and reassembled and reinstalled the starter. The proper parts came promptly, but because I tightened everything up the starter worked fine (and has been working fine for the past year) I suppose my partly worn contacts were just loose. I know I have the parts around somewhere, but It would take at least an hour to dig them up.Don't waste your time like I did, if you are confortable doing this repair yourself, just order one of each (A, B, C & D) for US$19.50 and sell the unused ones back after you do the repair.
Check the connections to the starter. Solenoid wire, red power wire and ground cable for any signs of corrosion. Do the same for your battery terminals. If it looks bad, disconnect, wire brush them and re-assemble with dielectric grease.
Finally, I changed the starter solenoid contacts this weekend. But it was an effort to remove the starter. Had to remove the battery, then the air cleaner and also had to move aside the cruise control. Reused the plunger though after cleaning with a wire brush.
Before you give up on the starter check the battery & battery terminals. A bad (dirty) connection can give you click only situation. Can also be the grounding strap from the battery at the frame. Try a boost on the battery if you don't know how to check battery .
hit with hammer; batt clamps
My camry had the same thing, sometimes it would start fine a buncha times and sometimes it would click 20 times in a row. I kept a hammer in the car and smacked the starter if it wouldn't start for a while. I replaced my starter with a remand one and everything good now.
If it's the solenoid contacts, then if you keep turning the key on and off, it'll eventually start -- those contacts don't just die suddenly, at first it takes a couple-three tries, and gradually gets worse until you get tired enough of the problem to fix it.
While you're checking the rig, check the battery voltage, especially right after you've tried to start. Usually those 4-cylinder motors will start even with a bad cell in the battery (but they'll crank pretty slowly), but it's worth checking.
also the batt. clamps really suck on toyota for some reason, and since you said you had corrosion a bad connection on the batt. could also be possible--- sometimes its more simple than you think.
I smacked the starter with a hammer and got it started
If it's the solenoid contacts, then if you keep turning the key on and off, it'll eventually start -- those contacts don't just die suddenly, at first it takes a couple-three tries, and gradually gets worse until you get tired enough of the problem to fix it.
While you're checking the rig, check the battery voltage, especially right after you've tried to start. Usually those 4-cylinder motors will start even with a bad cell in the battery (but they'll crank pretty slowly), but it's worth checking.
also the batt. clamps really suck on toyota for some reason, and since you said you had corrosion a bad connection on the batt. could also be possible--- sometimes its more simple than you think.
I smacked the starter with a hammer and got it started
Illustrated DIY of denso starter
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=319717
Websites that helped me
http://www.camrystuff.com/manuals/Gen4/Starting.pdf
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t27312.html
After doing some research on this incident I was convinced that it was definetely the solenoid contacts and plunger (for now).
This is what I bought
Electrical Cleaner Spray - $5.60
Hi Temp Grease - $3.99
Solenoid Plunger - $32.00S
solenoid Contacts both kits $25.00
This is one of the sites that may give you a better price http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/densoparts.html
Click-bzzzz sounds more like a borderline battery. Was it doing this after you replaced the battery? CLICK-CLICK-CLICK-CLICK-start is classic worn contacts. If you don't want to twiddle thumbs, you can yank the starter, pull the contacts, and put the ends next to each other -- worn contacts look like a stairstep, with the eroded part lower than the rest of the contact. If you carefully file down the higher eroded contact so that it matches the height of the lower eroded contact (just the eroded area, not the entire contact), you can eke a bit more time out of those contacts. Not something I recommend long-term, but it's an option. While you've got them out, take a picture of the contacts (different Denso starters have different contacts) and write down the part number of the starter. You might be able to call around to electric motor repair places (or, even better, a place that specializes in starter repair), and score a couple of contacts from there.
Websites that helped me
http://www.camrystuff.com/manuals/Gen4/Starting.pdf
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t27312.html
After doing some research on this incident I was convinced that it was definetely the solenoid contacts and plunger (for now).
This is what I bought
Electrical Cleaner Spray - $5.60
Hi Temp Grease - $3.99
Solenoid Plunger - $32.00S
solenoid Contacts both kits $25.00
This is one of the sites that may give you a better price http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/densoparts.html
Click-bzzzz sounds more like a borderline battery. Was it doing this after you replaced the battery? CLICK-CLICK-CLICK-CLICK-start is classic worn contacts. If you don't want to twiddle thumbs, you can yank the starter, pull the contacts, and put the ends next to each other -- worn contacts look like a stairstep, with the eroded part lower than the rest of the contact. If you carefully file down the higher eroded contact so that it matches the height of the lower eroded contact (just the eroded area, not the entire contact), you can eke a bit more time out of those contacts. Not something I recommend long-term, but it's an option. While you've got them out, take a picture of the contacts (different Denso starters have different contacts) and write down the part number of the starter. You might be able to call around to electric motor repair places (or, even better, a place that specializes in starter repair), and score a couple of contacts from there.
denso contacts
It could also be the starter. It's hard to tell. There are a pair of copper contacts in the starter that wear out after a while resulting in intermittent contacts. The repair is rather inexpensive but requires removing and disassembling the starter. Check out this site for more info. http://nationsautoelectric.com/densoparts.html
Whoever does the job must hold the contacts in place with a C-clamp and a piece of wood or using a bench press, so that the contacts don't move while the screws are being fastened. Otherwise, it may fail again after a short while.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=222481
This sounds like the very common Denso starter solenoid contacts problem. Do a search for "starter contacts" on this forum and read up on the problem. This has been discussed repeatedly on this forum. When I had this problem, I decided to remove the starter myself and have the whole unit professionally rebuilt by an auto electrical rebuilder in my area. That rebuilder came highly recommended by a professional tech. I felt much better about having him rebuild my OEM starter, than picking up a rebuilt unit in an auto parts store, or just doing the contacts myself. I intended to keep this car for a long time.
my car is presently doing the same thing, its the starter solenoid, unfortunately its hard to pick up just the solenoid from an autoparts store, I've called everywhere. Its unessary to replace the whole starter, you just need to replace the solenoid. (its attached to the starter, 2 bolts disconnect it from the motor.) Rock auto has just the solenoid for 100$, a starter is about 175-200$ (auto parts store price)
Whoever does the job must hold the contacts in place with a C-clamp and a piece of wood or using a bench press, so that the contacts don't move while the screws are being fastened. Otherwise, it may fail again after a short while.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=222481
This sounds like the very common Denso starter solenoid contacts problem. Do a search for "starter contacts" on this forum and read up on the problem. This has been discussed repeatedly on this forum. When I had this problem, I decided to remove the starter myself and have the whole unit professionally rebuilt by an auto electrical rebuilder in my area. That rebuilder came highly recommended by a professional tech. I felt much better about having him rebuild my OEM starter, than picking up a rebuilt unit in an auto parts store, or just doing the contacts myself. I intended to keep this car for a long time.
my car is presently doing the same thing, its the starter solenoid, unfortunately its hard to pick up just the solenoid from an autoparts store, I've called everywhere. Its unessary to replace the whole starter, you just need to replace the solenoid. (its attached to the starter, 2 bolts disconnect it from the motor.) Rock auto has just the solenoid for 100$, a starter is about 175-200$ (auto parts store price)
24 Toyota (NipponDenso now called Denso) starter repair sites
Carbon brushes are the common failure in Bosch starters but in Denso (usdd in Toyotas & other Japs) it's usually the copper solenoid contacts,see below for full details:
24 Toyota (NipponDenso now called Denso) starter repair sites:
http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/tech/starter/ -http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
http://char.tuiasi.ro/vw/reality/rog...s/Starter.html
http://yotarepair.com/startercontacts.html
http://www.toyotaoffroad.net/afertig...rterrepair.htm
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/starter
http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/...r/haveblue.htm
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical...er_rebuild.htm
http://www.startercontacts.com/install.htm
http://www.startercontacts.com/image...loded_view.jpg
http://www.colorado4x4.net/tech/star..._contacts.html
http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/techneek/starter.htm http://perso.wanadoo.fr/adherence.4x4/start_bj.htm
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.phpt=166530
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...312&forumid=10
http://www.toyotanation.com/showthre...312&forumid=10
http://www.toyotaoffroad.com/Article...er/starter.htm
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/boophoenix/starter.html
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/booph...er/image01.jpg
http://www.yotatech.com/f128/starter...4runner-76347/
http://www.team-integra.net/sections...ArticleID=1079
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...g/1starter.pdf
ftp://ftp.bauchan.org/Toyota/general...id_contact.zip
ftp://ftp.bauchan.org/Toyota/electri...rter_motor.zip
http://forums.bauchan.org/portal/vie...ds.php?rid=176
Whether your starter uses two rectangular types or one rectangular and one crescent you can substitute with two squares or one square and one crescent so any of the above part #'s for those kits will be the right ones,or about half of the auto electric shops in your local yellow pages would sell aftermarket contacts for only $5 each or the pair.
24 Toyota (NipponDenso now called Denso) starter repair sites:
http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/tech/starter/ -http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
http://char.tuiasi.ro/vw/reality/rog...s/Starter.html
http://yotarepair.com/startercontacts.html
http://www.toyotaoffroad.net/afertig...rterrepair.htm
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/starter
http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/...r/haveblue.htm
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical...er_rebuild.htm
http://www.startercontacts.com/install.htm
http://www.startercontacts.com/image...loded_view.jpg
http://www.colorado4x4.net/tech/star..._contacts.html
http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/techneek/starter.htm http://perso.wanadoo.fr/adherence.4x4/start_bj.htm
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.phpt=166530
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...312&forumid=10
http://www.toyotanation.com/showthre...312&forumid=10
http://www.toyotaoffroad.com/Article...er/starter.htm
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/boophoenix/starter.html
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/booph...er/image01.jpg
http://www.yotatech.com/f128/starter...4runner-76347/
http://www.team-integra.net/sections...ArticleID=1079
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...g/1starter.pdf
ftp://ftp.bauchan.org/Toyota/general...id_contact.zip
ftp://ftp.bauchan.org/Toyota/electri...rter_motor.zip
http://forums.bauchan.org/portal/vie...ds.php?rid=176
Whether your starter uses two rectangular types or one rectangular and one crescent you can substitute with two squares or one square and one crescent so any of the above part #'s for those kits will be the right ones,or about half of the auto electric shops in your local yellow pages would sell aftermarket contacts for only $5 each or the pair.
"sticky" starter solenoid
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=233363
Ok. 1988 Camry 4 cylinder, 230,000 kms. I'm having a problem with what I've concluded to be the starter or something related. This is an intermittent problem, it happens time to time, like 1 out of 5 starts. When I go to turn the car over nothing happens, the dash lights come on but I dont hear the solenoid tick. Ive been through 3 starters, the first (original) the bendix assembly jammed and the second and third have this problem.
The only way I can get it to start is if I have someone hold the ignition while I "tap" the motor with a hammer. Its almost as if the solenoid "sticks" and needs more voltage to turn it over. I first though it was the starter motor itself, but Ive ruled that out, I connected the two terminals together and the motor spins free, If I dont tap the starter beforehand I cant get the car to start, but the starter motor spins freely. Its only once I have tapped the starter with a hammer that the solenoid will engage.
To date I have: tried 2 different starters, the latest one I bought is "refurbished"- cleaned ALL the grounds, motor, fender, and the battery tray ground. All of them were cleaned with steel wool and degreased. It helped, the car didnt do it for 2 days then it started again. I dont know if its a voltage problem, but it wouldnt make sense seeing as I can only get it to start by tapping the starter so I didnt bother to check the voltages.Is there something I'm missing? its a stupid problem, does anyone know what it could be? Or any suggestions on how to fix it?
If you got one click, I'd say the contacts in the solenoid were bad. No clicks makes me think that the starter relay should be looked at.
Listen carefully for that 1 click when the starter does not turn. If you do hear the 1 click, then it is most likely the starter solenoid contacts problem that is fairly common. The 1 click would be the starter relay activating and sending voltage to the starter's solenoid, however, the solenoid is not passing the voltage along to the starter. Do a search on this site for "starter contacts" and read up on the problem. It has been covered numerous times.
If you do not hear the 1 click, then I would agree that it might be the starter relay. For a test, see if there is an identical relay for a non-essential item that you can switch out with the starter relay. Then drive the car for a couple of days like this and see if the problem goes away. If it does, you know you need another relay. If no other relay is available, you just may have to buy another relay to test it out.Mike
So if banging the starter gets it to work EVERY time, you suspect battery cables or an ignition switch huh? It seems to me that it's a starter problem. Installing cheap parts means nothing from a diagnostic standpoint.Banging the starter has nothing to do with electrical connections, cables, batteries, ignition switches, etc. as they will not be influenced by the starter being struck.Replace the starter with a high quality NEW OR REMANUFACTURED (not rebuilt or refurbished) starter.
Ok. 1988 Camry 4 cylinder, 230,000 kms. I'm having a problem with what I've concluded to be the starter or something related. This is an intermittent problem, it happens time to time, like 1 out of 5 starts. When I go to turn the car over nothing happens, the dash lights come on but I dont hear the solenoid tick. Ive been through 3 starters, the first (original) the bendix assembly jammed and the second and third have this problem.
The only way I can get it to start is if I have someone hold the ignition while I "tap" the motor with a hammer. Its almost as if the solenoid "sticks" and needs more voltage to turn it over. I first though it was the starter motor itself, but Ive ruled that out, I connected the two terminals together and the motor spins free, If I dont tap the starter beforehand I cant get the car to start, but the starter motor spins freely. Its only once I have tapped the starter with a hammer that the solenoid will engage.
To date I have: tried 2 different starters, the latest one I bought is "refurbished"- cleaned ALL the grounds, motor, fender, and the battery tray ground. All of them were cleaned with steel wool and degreased. It helped, the car didnt do it for 2 days then it started again. I dont know if its a voltage problem, but it wouldnt make sense seeing as I can only get it to start by tapping the starter so I didnt bother to check the voltages.Is there something I'm missing? its a stupid problem, does anyone know what it could be? Or any suggestions on how to fix it?
If you got one click, I'd say the contacts in the solenoid were bad. No clicks makes me think that the starter relay should be looked at.
Listen carefully for that 1 click when the starter does not turn. If you do hear the 1 click, then it is most likely the starter solenoid contacts problem that is fairly common. The 1 click would be the starter relay activating and sending voltage to the starter's solenoid, however, the solenoid is not passing the voltage along to the starter. Do a search on this site for "starter contacts" and read up on the problem. It has been covered numerous times.
If you do not hear the 1 click, then I would agree that it might be the starter relay. For a test, see if there is an identical relay for a non-essential item that you can switch out with the starter relay. Then drive the car for a couple of days like this and see if the problem goes away. If it does, you know you need another relay. If no other relay is available, you just may have to buy another relay to test it out.Mike
So if banging the starter gets it to work EVERY time, you suspect battery cables or an ignition switch huh? It seems to me that it's a starter problem. Installing cheap parts means nothing from a diagnostic standpoint.Banging the starter has nothing to do with electrical connections, cables, batteries, ignition switches, etc. as they will not be influenced by the starter being struck.Replace the starter with a high quality NEW OR REMANUFACTURED (not rebuilt or refurbished) starter.
Denso Starter Solenoid Contacts
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=302817&highlight=starter+solenoid+fry+burn
My '93 Camry is having a problem somewhere between the ignition and the starter. When I turn the key, it turns, the electrical comes on, but the engine does not turn at all, no clicking, nothing.A gentleman showed me how to essentially hotwire it by disconnecting the ignition switch and using a wire directly from the battery to the starter, and it turns fine and starts. So the starter is not getting a charge to start.The next day, reconnected the ignition switch to try it, and it worked just like normal all day. I thought it was fixed. However, on day three, it stopped again, and I returned to the hotwire situation.
Things I've Tried:-Charge directly to starter, works fine, no problem with starter.-Cleaned battery, it has a good connection.-Tried turning key in park and neutral, will not start in either, no turnover or engine or clicking.-The fact that the engine started normally on day two implies that there is not problem with the ignition switch.Any ideas? Is there anything else in the relay that could be bad? I'd really like to save some money and try fixing this at home before I give up and take it to a garage.
Listen very carefully when it doesn't start and see if you hear 1 click. If so, you could have the common worn starter solenoid contacts problem. If this is the case, do a search on this forum for "starter contacts" and read up on the problem and it's cures. You can also test for this problem when it doesn't start by taking a hammer or a wrench and tapping on the starter's solenoid and then try to start the car. If the car now starts you have identified this problem.
This is what a starter relay looks like:http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=939378
$11.30+shipping
Relay, starter solenoid, or wiring. DO not exchange your starter out to any repair place, they built these starters to last forever. Just have the solenoid rebuilt if they advise it and it is normal for it to wear out eventually, if you use the starter allot, basically the solenoid pushes live electrical copper contact points that are connected directly to your battery to get to a larger motor can run and turn the motor over. The above poster pointed out to the rebuild for the contacts if need be, it very simple, as is taking the starter off the car. Then go to the starter repair shop and ask for the contacts, but read the writeup on it first as it tells you everything. Also, check your wiring, could be loose, weak or old battery itself, or bad battery connection can fool the troubleshooting procedure. Volt meter will check your relay. Usually, a simple and cheap repair, the contacts themselves should be only a few dollars. Happy trails.
startercontacts.com Don't replace that DENSO starter.
If your starter is clicking a few times but then turns over normally it most likely just has bad contacts. Occasionally the problem can be the wiring or the ignition switch. If so you may need to install a relay.
My '93 Camry is having a problem somewhere between the ignition and the starter. When I turn the key, it turns, the electrical comes on, but the engine does not turn at all, no clicking, nothing.A gentleman showed me how to essentially hotwire it by disconnecting the ignition switch and using a wire directly from the battery to the starter, and it turns fine and starts. So the starter is not getting a charge to start.The next day, reconnected the ignition switch to try it, and it worked just like normal all day. I thought it was fixed. However, on day three, it stopped again, and I returned to the hotwire situation.
Things I've Tried:-Charge directly to starter, works fine, no problem with starter.-Cleaned battery, it has a good connection.-Tried turning key in park and neutral, will not start in either, no turnover or engine or clicking.-The fact that the engine started normally on day two implies that there is not problem with the ignition switch.Any ideas? Is there anything else in the relay that could be bad? I'd really like to save some money and try fixing this at home before I give up and take it to a garage.
Listen very carefully when it doesn't start and see if you hear 1 click. If so, you could have the common worn starter solenoid contacts problem. If this is the case, do a search on this forum for "starter contacts" and read up on the problem and it's cures. You can also test for this problem when it doesn't start by taking a hammer or a wrench and tapping on the starter's solenoid and then try to start the car. If the car now starts you have identified this problem.
This is what a starter relay looks like:http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=939378
$11.30+shipping
Relay, starter solenoid, or wiring. DO not exchange your starter out to any repair place, they built these starters to last forever. Just have the solenoid rebuilt if they advise it and it is normal for it to wear out eventually, if you use the starter allot, basically the solenoid pushes live electrical copper contact points that are connected directly to your battery to get to a larger motor can run and turn the motor over. The above poster pointed out to the rebuild for the contacts if need be, it very simple, as is taking the starter off the car. Then go to the starter repair shop and ask for the contacts, but read the writeup on it first as it tells you everything. Also, check your wiring, could be loose, weak or old battery itself, or bad battery connection can fool the troubleshooting procedure. Volt meter will check your relay. Usually, a simple and cheap repair, the contacts themselves should be only a few dollars. Happy trails.
startercontacts.com Don't replace that DENSO starter.
If your starter is clicking a few times but then turns over normally it most likely just has bad contacts. Occasionally the problem can be the wiring or the ignition switch. If so you may need to install a relay.
Sunday, January 24, 2010
Camry Starter Solenoid Contact problem
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=27312&forumid=10
If you are hearing 1 click, you have the very common "starter solenoid contact problem". The contacts inside the starter's solenoid wear and no longer allow current to pass throught them to the starter. This results in a no crank situation. Do a search on this forum for "starter contacts". It has been covered numerous times.
You can verify this the next time it happens.Have someone hold the key in the start position while you get out and give the starter a tap with a hammer or good size wrench. If the starter now cranks the engine, you have verified the starter solenoid contact problem. You will need to replace the starter's solenoid contacts or replace the entire starter with a new or rebuilt unit.
One other option is to remove your starter from the vehicle and take it in to an auto electrical rebuilder in your area to have your original starter rebuilt. This is an option I prefer if you have the original OEM Toyota starter. However, these rebuilders are becoming harder to find all the time.
If you are hearing multiple rapid clicks then you have a battery problem, an alternator problem where the alternator is not charging the battery, a loose alternator belt again resulting in the alternator not charging the battery, or a problem with poor/corroded connections at the battery posts/terminals or at the starter itself.
Testing Camry ignition Switch
http://www.justanswer.com/questions/2j349-i-have-a-1993-toyota-camry-4-door-2-2-4cyl-problems-are-no
The connector of the ignition switch looks like the second diragram.
1 . To gain acccess, remove upper and lower steering column covers (it may be necessary to first remove lower instrument panel trim panel). Remove outer plastic trim cover from lock cylinder assembly (if equipped).
2 . Disconnect ignition switch electrical connector(s). Remove screw(s) retaining ignition switch to lock cylinder. Remove ignition switch from lock cylinder. To install, reverse removal procedure.
Above are removal pocedures for the ignition switch. After removing the steering covers you would be able to notice the ignition switch , at opposite end of where the ignition key is inseterd.
You would need a DVOM for continuity tests. If you have a test light, backprobing the terminals Read more: http://www.justanswer.com/questions/2j349-i-have-a-1993-toyota-camry-4-door-2-2-4cyl-problems-are-no#ixzz0dZsouJfy
The symptoms described indicates a fault with the ignition switch. Here are procedures for testing the ignition switch.
IGNITION SWITCH Disconnect ignition switch connector. With ignition switch in specified position, check continuity between specified terminals of ignition switch connector. If continuity is not as specified, replace ignition switchRead more: http://www.justanswer.com/questions/2j349-i-have-a-1993-toyota-camry-4-door-2-2-4cyl-problems-are-no#ixzz0dZrxv2RT
IGNITION SWITCH Disconnect ignition switch connector. With ignition switch in specified position, check continuity between specified terminals of ignition switch connector. If continuity is not as specified, replace ignition switchRead more: http://www.justanswer.com/questions/2j349-i-have-a-1993-toyota-camry-4-door-2-2-4cyl-problems-are-no#ixzz0dZrxv2RT
Terminal 4 and 10 should be hot at all times.Read more: http://www.justanswer.com/questions/2j349-i-have-a-1993-toyota-camry-4-door-2-2-4cyl-problems-are-no#ixzz0dZsITjfh
The connector of the ignition switch looks like the second diragram.
1 . To gain acccess, remove upper and lower steering column covers (it may be necessary to first remove lower instrument panel trim panel). Remove outer plastic trim cover from lock cylinder assembly (if equipped).
2 . Disconnect ignition switch electrical connector(s). Remove screw(s) retaining ignition switch to lock cylinder. Remove ignition switch from lock cylinder. To install, reverse removal procedure.
Above are removal pocedures for the ignition switch. After removing the steering covers you would be able to notice the ignition switch , at opposite end of where the ignition key is inseterd.
You would need a DVOM for continuity tests. If you have a test light, backprobing the terminals Read more: http://www.justanswer.com/questions/2j349-i-have-a-1993-toyota-camry-4-door-2-2-4cyl-problems-are-no#ixzz0dZsouJfy
Toyota Camry Problems
http://repairpal.com/cars/toyota/camry
Brakes
The front brake rotors can wear causing a pulsation felt in the brake pedal when it is applied.
Our technicians recommend flushing the brake fluid every 60,000 miles because the fluid can become dirty and may cause problems in the brake system such as early failure of the master cylinder or wheel cylinders.
Engine
The motor mount on the passenger side of the car can wear out on cars with high mileage. This will put extra stress on the other mounts, and the faulty mount will need to be replaced.
It is important to regularly check the valve clearance as the exhaust valves may become too tight. This will lead to valve failures, which are expensive to repair. 2.0L 4 cylinder
The ignition coil inside the distributor may fail. Our technicians tell us this may result in a hesitation on acceleration, especially when the vehicle is warming up on cold, rainy days.
Exhaust & Emissions
The EGR System tends to get restricted or blocked with carbon after 100,000- 125,000 miles which will cause an emissions test failure for NOX. If the EGR system is equipped with an EGR temperature sensor it will trigger a Check Engine Light for improper EGR flow. The repair is to clean out the EGR passages and to clean off the EGR Temperature sensor. Our technicians tell this repair is all pretty straight forward and takes about 1-1.5 hours.
By the time the EGR system is plugged, the Oxygen Sensor is getting slow or 'lazy'. When servicing or cleaning the EGR system, it is a good idea to replace the Oxygen sensor because it works in tandem with the EGR system.
Suspension & Steering
The power steering pump and power steering hoses tend to develop leaks, particularly in the V6 models.
Driving over bumps causes loud, annoying noises in the body of the car. If the noise is a groaning or creaking, it can be improved by lubricating the rubber joints in the suspension system. If the noise is a rattling sound, the problem is likely wear and tear on the upper mounting plate for the strut suspension.
Drive Train
At higher mileages, (125,000-150,000) the automatic transmissions may not shift correctly. This can be caused by the Throttle Position Sensor being out of adjustment or a shift solenoid needing to be replaced. Typically the transmission does not need to be completely overhauled.
Electrical & Lights
If the vehicle will not crank over, the most common problem is the starter, which tend to fail at about 100,00-125,000 miles. Sometimes it is only the starter solenoid contacts, but often the complete starter (including solenoid) needs to be replaced.
Heating & Air Conditioning
Usually by 150,000 miles the A/C system will need some attention, especially in climates where it is used often. Our technicians tell us that it is best to service the A/C system every 2-3 years. This keeps the moisture in the system at a minimum which extends the life of the components.
Brakes
The front brake rotors can wear causing a pulsation felt in the brake pedal when it is applied.
Our technicians recommend flushing the brake fluid every 60,000 miles because the fluid can become dirty and may cause problems in the brake system such as early failure of the master cylinder or wheel cylinders.
Engine
The motor mount on the passenger side of the car can wear out on cars with high mileage. This will put extra stress on the other mounts, and the faulty mount will need to be replaced.
It is important to regularly check the valve clearance as the exhaust valves may become too tight. This will lead to valve failures, which are expensive to repair. 2.0L 4 cylinder
The ignition coil inside the distributor may fail. Our technicians tell us this may result in a hesitation on acceleration, especially when the vehicle is warming up on cold, rainy days.
Exhaust & Emissions
The EGR System tends to get restricted or blocked with carbon after 100,000- 125,000 miles which will cause an emissions test failure for NOX. If the EGR system is equipped with an EGR temperature sensor it will trigger a Check Engine Light for improper EGR flow. The repair is to clean out the EGR passages and to clean off the EGR Temperature sensor. Our technicians tell this repair is all pretty straight forward and takes about 1-1.5 hours.
By the time the EGR system is plugged, the Oxygen Sensor is getting slow or 'lazy'. When servicing or cleaning the EGR system, it is a good idea to replace the Oxygen sensor because it works in tandem with the EGR system.
Suspension & Steering
The power steering pump and power steering hoses tend to develop leaks, particularly in the V6 models.
Driving over bumps causes loud, annoying noises in the body of the car. If the noise is a groaning or creaking, it can be improved by lubricating the rubber joints in the suspension system. If the noise is a rattling sound, the problem is likely wear and tear on the upper mounting plate for the strut suspension.
Drive Train
At higher mileages, (125,000-150,000) the automatic transmissions may not shift correctly. This can be caused by the Throttle Position Sensor being out of adjustment or a shift solenoid needing to be replaced. Typically the transmission does not need to be completely overhauled.
Electrical & Lights
If the vehicle will not crank over, the most common problem is the starter, which tend to fail at about 100,00-125,000 miles. Sometimes it is only the starter solenoid contacts, but often the complete starter (including solenoid) needs to be replaced.
Heating & Air Conditioning
Usually by 150,000 miles the A/C system will need some attention, especially in climates where it is used often. Our technicians tell us that it is best to service the A/C system every 2-3 years. This keeps the moisture in the system at a minimum which extends the life of the components.
Saturday, January 23, 2010
Tuesday, January 19, 2010
1996 Camry oil pressure switch location
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/92camry.pdf1998 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 185000 miles
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We have an oil leak at a "fitting" on the front of the engine, passenger side just below the head gasket. The oil just squirts out at the seal of the "fitting". Can you help me identify what component would be located in this area and is it easily replaceable? Thanks.
Re: where is the camry oil pressure switch location?
07/26/2007, 1:36PM
Re: where is the camry oil pressure switch location?
07/26/2007, 1:36PM
The oil pressure sender is located on the engine block near where the oil filter screws on. It should have one wire coming out of it and be a roughly hex-shaped metal unit threaded into the block.
On your 1996 TOYOTA CAMRY, the OIL PRESSURE SWITCH is: UNDER HOOD, CENTER, LOWER ENGINE AREA, MOUNTED ON FRONT DRIVER SIDE OF ENGINE
I have to be completely honest with you here that oil pumps do not fail on these cars, the only problem we ever see is some issues with dry seals at the pump that can cause some oil leaks.
Thursday, January 14, 2010
Resetting Camry maint interval light
Okay here is the biggest mistake: Ignore what the manual says about how to reset the MAINT REQD light. Its completely wrong. In fact, the first hint should have been when it said there was a MAINT REQD SOON light. I shined a flashlight at the dash to see what all the possible indicators are, and there is no MAINT REQD SOON light... anyway, I have an LE model with a I4. If someone else has a different trim level or v6, and I'm wrong correct me.
anyway, here is what you do to reset the MAINT REQD light so it will quit blinking:
a) With the Engine ON click your Odometer/TripA/TripB selector knob so the display shows TRIP A
b) Turn the car off
c) Turn the key 1 click to ACC (accessory mode)
d) While in ACC, press and hold the selector knob in (don't worry that can't see anything on the dashboard.)
e) While you are still holding the selector knob, click the key 1 more position to the ON position.
f) If you do it correctly, you will see the TripA display change to somenumbers and then start blinking quickly.
you will also see the MAINTREQD blinking quickly.
After about 5 seconds of holding the knob inthe display should show 0000000000000 then go away.
Start the car up, and no more MAINT REQD light until you put another 4500miles on the car!
anyway, here is what you do to reset the MAINT REQD light so it will quit blinking:
a) With the Engine ON click your Odometer/TripA/TripB selector knob so the display shows TRIP A
b) Turn the car off
c) Turn the key 1 click to ACC (accessory mode)
d) While in ACC, press and hold the selector knob in (don't worry that can't see anything on the dashboard.)
e) While you are still holding the selector knob, click the key 1 more position to the ON position.
f) If you do it correctly, you will see the TripA display change to somenumbers and then start blinking quickly.
you will also see the MAINTREQD blinking quickly.
After about 5 seconds of holding the knob inthe display should show 0000000000000 then go away.
Start the car up, and no more MAINT REQD light until you put another 4500miles on the car!
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