Avalon rattling noise

http://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/f49/rattle-roof-cold-days-15597/index2.html

the manager showed me yesterday after they took the top off - showed me each side as where the glass slides in (I'm sorry I'm not sure how to explain it) and pressed against it and the rattle stopped - So.. maybe.. just maybe. I will post and let you know more info if it works.

"My 2007 Camry Hybrid roof rattles. The dealer has tried to numerous remedies like tightening anything that can be tightened and placing insulation in the roof area. Nothing works. The rattle comes from the front area of the roof just above the sun visor. If I put pressure on this area when it rattles it stops. Anyone have a similar issue?"But I when I opened the sun roof (slid open) and close it, it has not come back. Maybe it wasn't closed all the way. It was odd because it took a year for this noise to start.

Oh as I was trying to explain with the lining was out - the sides (if the glass was in) there's a metal strip on each side - the driver side is the one they pressed up on and it stopped. If that makes any sence.

I have this exact issue. I get a rattle on the passenger side and light pressure near the sun visor stops it.

Just thought I would post a followup. I just picked up my Camry Hybrid from the dealership and the clunking noise has gone. The tech applied felt in both corners of moonroof structures as per TSB 0089-08, T1-91, T2-57. I hope this will be of some use to anyone else that runs in to the same problem with the 2008 Camry.

I took my Camry in to the dealership when it was still under warranty and the service advisor told me that it is a well known problem, The tech applied felt in both corners of moonroof structures as per TSB 0089-08, T1-91, T2-57. Your service center can probably do the same but since it is not under warranty you will be charged.

bmgoodman — The dash rattle (more of a clicking noise to my ears) has been reported on before in this forum, and a solution was found (I don't recall who it was, but do a search). The solution was to insert a strip of foam rubber into the narrow slot between the windshield and the dash in the areas between the tweeter grilles. I have also experienced this noise myself when the weather is cold (but not too cold!). At the moment I have experimentally inserted some pieces of corrugated cardboard into this slot, and found that they do completely eliminate the noise. I'll be replacing the cardboard with foam rubber when the weather gets warmer.

I too have this Clack / Clicking noise and my dealer told me this is caused by the metal clips used at the base of the windshield under the dash. There is a TSB he showed me that involves removing the entire dash to replace the original (all metal) clips with ones coated with rubber or something. He also stated he has done more than 5o cars as this applies to all Camry 2007 versions not just the TCH.

I went to Menards and bought some grey foam weatherstripping that is approximately 1" x 1", and inserted it in the gap between the grey dash and the windshield. I used a paint stirring stick to push it down in there.You can't see the material in there unless you look closely, and it has permanently solved the problem

Spiff, the weatherstripping I got was very basic with no backing or adhesive. It basically was like a 4' long piece of square grey foam rubber. I can't remember the exact dimensions but it came rolled up and was maybe 1" x 1". It compressed nicely into the gap between the dash and the windshield when I worked it in with the paint stirring stick. I used the whole piece and it covered probably 80% of the gap with maybe 2-3" short on each side.The nice thing is that the grey color makes it very difficult to see as it blends with the grey dash.

Crappy Avalon negative battery terminals

Re: IS it really a dead battery or just the connection??? [stanleymartin] by fin
Oct 19, 2005 (8:00 pm)

Replying to: stanleymartin (Oct 19, 2005 7:32 pm)In years past we have discussed at length in this forum the problem of excessive corrosion around the *negative* battery post in Avalons. Most likely, it is a function of joining different types of metal and electricity. It may also be caused by the ground cable itself. You might try replacing the ground cable, and make sure you clean the negative post completely. Corrosion may occur at the other end of the cable also, but most should be at the battery. The white corrosive material blocks electrical current. A battery that tests "good" still may not have enough power to overcome the corrosion/connection problem and start the car. Try a new battery at the store and see if the car starts easily....it might be the battery. ( My '03 XL is now on the THIRD battery! ) Hope this helps...

Home :: Toyota :: Avalon :: 2001
Toyota Avalon 2001 Complaint
Complaint about ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
LANGHORNE, PA
Consumer Complaint:WHILE DRIVING VEHICLE ON 9/13/02 AT 65MPH, THERE WAS A TOTAL FAILURE IN THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FOR A SPLIT SECOND. I DISREGARDED IT THINKING THAT IT WAS MY IMAGINATION. HOWEVER, THE VERY NEXT DAY THE ENTIRE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ON THE CAR WAS DEAD MAKING THE CAR INOPERATIVE. CAUSE: DISINTEGRATION OF NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE TERMINAL END WHICH CAUSED THE NEGATIVE CABLE TO DISCONNECT FROM ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. I HAVE RESEARCHED THIS PROBLEM WITH OTHER TOYOTA OWNERS AND FOUND THAT THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM. FAILURE OF ELECTRICAL SYSTEM IS A SAFETY RELATED FUNCTION IN THAT IT COMPLETELY DISABLES THE VEHICLE. NLM
Date of Incident:20020914


http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ee9e70b/1795?@97.7TKNaOCMgds@

Toyota Quality a Fantasy by padevlin
Sep 22, 2002 (3:30 pm)

First of all, if an electrical connenction fails prematurely in a Toyota vehicle, I guess that I have only Toyota to blame in that they are the manufacturer of the vehicle. I think that is how it works. Furthermore, I have never seen a battery terminal clamp so poorly made and inadequately connected (crimped) on to the end of the cable. I do not live at or near the ocean but close to Philadelphia. The car is always garaged day and night except when in use and maintained very well. I thought; however, in spite of 4 oil changes at the dealership which cost me on average about $30 each except for the Mobil 1 which was about $80 and the supposed 19 point inspection, the dealership failed to inspect the battery cable connections. As a matter of fact, they never checked the air in the tires or any of the other fluid levels in the car. Hmmm. As for the battery cable moving or my using any of the power ports - never happened. This is a definite defective part which requires Toyota's looking into this failure because it leaves the car totally inoperable which smells like a safety defect to me. Now that I know about this defective part, I will most definitely eyeball it every time that I check and replenish the fluids. I didn't shell out over $30K on this car to have to abandon it on the highway somewhere because the electrical system crapped out due to a defective Toyota part. Cliffy, why don't you do some research on this bugger before somebody gets hurt now that you know about it? Any remedial effort on a Toyota employees part would be quite rewarding and refreshing.

#1797 of 3522
reply to padevlin Avalon Battery Posts by highlander7
Sep 22, 2002 (3:56 pm)

padevlin, I checked my wife's Avalon battery posts and see where there is a potential for failure on the negative ground connection. This appears to be a very weak connection, the wires are fed through small holes on the angle bracket that attaches to the battery. These bare wires are crimped over, I can see where a little corrosion may separate the cable from this angle bracket. As soon as you look at this you see the potential problem. This is something to keep an eye on! My 4Runner has a heavy cable that is bolted to the battery terminal connector, the way it should be done. With a 7yr / 75000 mile warranty on the Avalon, I really do not want to change anything but will adapt it to a heavier connection if it begins to fail. Now I need the advise of a mechanic or electrician. Should this connection be sprayed or coated with a anti-corrosion solution? thanks again padevlin, your post and subsequent follow-ups from others may save someone from a battery problem. In the event this connection fails, I will add a #12 wire with alligator clips on each end to my tool kit in the truck of the Avalon. At least I will know what to look for if I lose power.

Toyota Avalon negative battery cable terminal end failure by padevlin
Sep 29, 2002 (6:32 pm)

I previously asked Cliffy1, who is a Toyota employee/enthusiast, if he could find out anything about the failure of the negative battery cable terminal end. This failure is definitely safety related in that when it fails the entire electrical system goes down which disables the vehicle and leaves the driver stranded with no power, no steering and no brakes. And if after dark, obviously left dead in the roadway with no lights at all. Not a very good situation in the middle of an interstate with a 65 mph limit in the middle of the night. I have not seen any response from Cliffy1; I would think that being a Toyota employee/enthusiast you would be able to research this problem and come up with some answers. My dealer's service
Toyota Quality a Fantasy by padevlin
Sep 30, 2002 (4:50 pm)

Thank you one and all for your input. As I mentioned, the main reason that I even posted this problem with the battery terminal end was to forewarn other owners and thereby hopefully prevent them and/or their loved ones from being put in harm's way from the failure of their car's electrical system. I have taken the car to the Toyota dealer; I have had the cable replaced; I have had the battery checked out; I have begun to cast a wary eye on the cables/ends, etc.

Thanks for the replies-I had all but given up and was going to have the vehicle towed to a shop. The wrecker driver removed 2 bolts to the positive clamp(where two wires come together to the clamp)Even though I had dilligently cleaned the external area-these two small metal plates had corrosion where they sandwiched between the two bolts)He cleaned them and the car starts beautifully.Even though I needlessly replaced the starter- I would have needed a starter eventually...It's always the small things I overlook----- Lessons learned............

The cables that goes from your battery itself. The large red one goes to your starter, black one is the ground. Where each one connects may have corrosion in them which keeps the juice from your battery from reaching the starter. You may even have enough to run your acc like radio, int lights, maybe even headlights but, not enough to turn the starter. The accessories and headlights draw between roughly 1-10 amps. A starter draws 150-200 amps.


toyota avalon start up problem by bkgk
Sep 29, 2006 (1:54 am)

I have a 2000 Toyota Avalon xl. I have not had any problems. Yesterday my car would not start. It makes a loud clicking sound and it can't be jumped off. I read in the previous messages that a cable may be bad, but what cable?

#53 of 100
Re: Toyota Avalon 2000 start up problem [alkric] by steve326a
Sep 29, 2006 (4:05 am)

Replying to: alkric (Aug 22, 2006 2:24 pm)The cables that goes from your battery itself. The large red one goes to your starter, black one is the ground. Where each one connects may have corrosion in them which keeps the juice from your battery from reaching the starter. You may even have enough to run your acc like radio, int lights, maybe even headlights but, not enough to turn the starter. The accessories and headlights draw between roughly 1-10 amps. A starter draws 150-200 amps.

90k mi servicing for 2001 Avalon

http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/detail.html?year=2001&make=14&model=100000243&styleId=100001834&engCode=6VNAG3.0&transCode=AUTOMATIC&mileage=87000&zip=62525

http://www.aboutautomobile.com/MaintenanceSchedule/2001/Toyota/Avalon

Servicing 2001 Avalon transmission

http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0e8b10
Change 2002 Avalon Automatic Transmission Fluid [xomaman] by xomaman
Feb 18, 2008 (12:49 pm)
Save Reply
Replying to: xomaman (Jul 08, 2007 11:39 am)Just to folllow up... I ended up flushing the transmission myself. So far it has been 8 months and everything is fine. The fluid is nice and red. I flushed it myself using instructions I found on the Internet. Now that I have done it, I trust doing it myself over a tranny shop because I will use more care and pay more attention. It's fairly easy if you have a garage and basic tools.

I bought the Dextron III fluid at WalMart. I found that my model Avalon only has a screen as a filter, so I decided not to remove the pan. I had the car on those drive-up ramps while doing this.

1. I drained the tranny pan, refilled it with new fluid and replaced the plug.

2. I then removed the tranny return line from the radiator and stuck about 6' of clear 3/8" tubing on there as a return line. The return line then ran into a large container off to the side to hold the old fluid. Use a clear container with quart marks so you can watch it and keep track of how much is coming out. I used a clear 4 gallon cooking oil container. I guess a gallon milk jug could work too. Make sure it won't tip over as it is filling. The radiator return line on my Avalon is at the bottom of the radiator on the driver's side. Or, if you lift the hood it will be the tranny line on the right as you are looking down. You need to remove the cover plate from under the car to access that area. Have patience, the hose clips and line can be a pain to get off.

3. I then removed the tranny dipstick and put a tranny fluid funnel in there. Then, with the help of my sexy assistant, I started the car. The tranny will pump the old fluid out and into the container from the exit line. It comes out as a full stream but with not a lot of pressure. It only takes about 30 seconds for a few quarts to come out. I wouldn't do it without an assistant to start and stop the car as you are watching it come out and pouring new fluid in. As the car is running, you need to pour new fluid in the filler tube as the old is being pushed out. Do a few quarts at a time at about the same rate as what is being pumped out. Eventually the fluid will be coming out clear which means all the old fluid is out. You need to buy a few more quarts than what the tranny holds. So...You are basically pouring fresh tranny fluid in the filler tube while the old tranny fluid is being pushed out through the hose you attached to the radiator return line, and this flushes the whole system...get it?

That's exactly how it works at the tranny shop for $110 + dollars. I used 15 quarts of Penzoil Dextron III. Be careful and don't overfill it. Later check the fluid level several times on level ground as described in the owner manual. It's better to add a quart than having to drain one.

Here is a link to a Lexus tranny flush tutorial. It's for a Lexus, but the basic idea is the same for the Avalon; transmission/transflush.html" target=_blank>http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/transmission/transflush.html

xle comps--the day after

Filter for 2007 or newer camrys with leather seats near champaign.

Tips on changing spark plugs in I4 engine

If you're using a spark plug socket with the rubber insert, and the insert is loose, don't use the rubber.

Instead, use a screwdriver and duct tape to retrieve the plug once loosened.

Wrap duct tape around the tip of the screwdriver sticky side out. Then use more duct tape above that point to secure it from slipping.

Use this tool to retrieve the spark plug, and also to lower the new spark plug into the vertical hole.

The hole is so deep that the rachet extension will remain essentially vertical.

Another tip: if the plugs have not been changed for >50K mi, they may appear seized. Unscrew them gradually for 2-3 quarter turns, then reverse and retighten. This seems to clear the threads, and then the plugs will come out more easily.

Also use some anti-seize compound on the threads of the new plugs. There is electrolytic action between plugs and aluminum blocks.

Adjusting trunk latch

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/archive/index.php/%3C/t-185133.html

then you need to adjust the lock down there are 2 bolts that you need to loosen and slide the actuater down so it hits inside the lock.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/archive/index.php/%3C/t-78342.html

Here is the torsional arm that will hold up the trunk, push the U shaped section towards the body/outside. Thar will give you some more slack for the following:


Here is a trim removal tool... worth every penny, and a 10mm wrench:
Remove the bolt on the hook with wrench and then use the trim removal tool to take off the hook and trim plug:

Now you should see this:

Make sure you sit inside trunk and make sure it is fully open,
Put your hand on the rod, push up and Pull the rod out and move to the upper slot.


EDIT: Do the same to both sides if a bit more tension is needed,

First you have to slide the Ushaped section towards the body on the opposite side.
Push up to releive the spring on the slot hole at the 90 deg. bent end and then pull out.

Our New Camry

2006 CAMRY DX 4DR 4cyl 5sp-MAN BLACK

VIN 4t1bg12k2tu690318

Engine: I4 2.2L

Tires: P205/65R15 Firestone Firehawk

Timing belt/waterpump

CV/axle

Radiator replaced

Battery

camry dash noises

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2980267


Page 20 of the Instrument Panel manual Step 7.

The manual can be located at:
http://www.camrystuff.com/index.php?page=Gen6_Manuals

I have a newly purchased certified 07 and I thought the "comprehensive 3 month warranty" might cover this. It doesn't and the dealer quoted me $500-600 to fix the clips. The clips called out in the TSB are about $10. I'm thinking of biting this off myself, but they talk about using some "EPT foam" on various bits too as well as felt. I'm not sure what kind of foam I could lay my hands to do the job myself.

so does it have to be cold to have dash board rattles?because im in the N.O. and my dash rattles/creaks all the time and it sure is not cold here...and im definitly out of warrenty...about how much would the tsb cost me?any ideas? thanks guys

For my 07 the nosies only surfaced when the temperature was below 30 degrees F. Once the interior warmed up the nosies went away. The TSB when I had it done called for 6-1/2 hours of labor. I understand it's a bit less now, but figure the dealer labor charge in your area (probably about $100 an hour) to get an estimate of the cost.

For me, tt rattled also when it was warm. I've just removed ALL ratles by simply pushing some self-adhesive felt ( bought in furniture shop) between dashboard and windscreen. I am shocked that the operation that took 5 mins removed the rattle noises completely

I have a very "common" problem of dashboard rattle sound in my 07 V6 camry. I know a TSB NV008-07 is out there to address the problem but Just wondering someone in Toronto or Mississauga got it fixed by applying the TSB?

I then took it to Whitby Toyota and they had it for half a day to install the 'noise kit'. It helped a great deal but it's still not perfect, again especially in cold weather. In the summer it's as quiet as a mouse.

Just looked at my invoice from the Canadian dealer - it doesn't actually reference a TSB. The invoice has an "FP Number" of 08231-00801-WA with a description of "Noise Kit". The 'Correction' states "R&R Dash to insulate".

I had mine done last Thursday. It's quite as a mouse now. On the ticket they reference the TSB and two noise kits: wind noise kit and noise kit.

I dropped my car off the night before. That way it sat all night and got good and cold. They tried immediatley in the morning and the dash made all kinds of noise. They applied the TSB and no more rattles. It's been a couple of weeks now and everything is still silent.

Rattling: upper strut mounts or sway bar bushings

These cars were known for 2 types of suspension rattles. If its in the front, I'd suspect the upper strut mounts. They would make noise even if there was no signs of loosness or wear. Fairly easy to change if you have a spring compressor. Be sure to line up the flat spots with the new mounts before tightening. If its in the rear, The sway bar bushings is what I would look at. The slightest bit of wear makes these noisy.

Read more: http://www.justanswer.com/questions/23op8-just-aquired-1997-toyota-camry#ixzz0YTcyoUP3

http://www.justanswer.com/questions/23op8-just-aquired-1997-toyota-camry

Replacing sway bar bushing

Possibly sway bar bushings. I just replaced mine on my 94 and it was doing exactly as you describe. They really are not much to replace. There is a bolt at each end that needs to come off and you just replace it. I went to the junk yard and picked up two off a car with low mileage and the bushings were in good shape. Usually just the back sway bars need replaced. There are two on each side. Try this, jack up the car and grab the tire at 3:00 and 9:00 (right and left) and see if the the wheel moves from side to side. Have someone else do it while you look at the bushing at the end of the sway bar and you will see it move if its bad. If the sway bar is good then it will be solid when you try to move the tire from side to side. The only problem I had when I changed mine was on the inner end of the sway bar. You have to hold the end of the bolt while you loosen the nut and the head of the bolt is in a little like cup and there is not enough room for a socket and rachet and a wrench would not fit in either. I bent the edge of the gas tank up slightly till I got a socket in to hold it.

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_could_be_causing_a_rattling_noise_and_sway_in_the_rear_of_a_1995_Toyota_Camry

Camry upper strut cushion

I have a '98 Camry and replaced the struts (but not the mounts) at ~100K. Then the mounts went bad within another 25K. Once they were replaced that annoying low speed rattle went away. But now it's back at 187K. I'm learning to live with it. This answer from a Toyota forum looked like an interesting avenue to pursue, however:

Quote:
Camrys and Avalons may exhibit a rattling or popping noise from the front suspension at low speeds. In most cases these noises have been traced to the upper strut cushion attachment to the strut tower. The upper surface of the tower is covered with a seam sealer prior to painting and becomes compressed when the upper strut mounting nuts are tightened. When the sealer wears away, the upper strut mounting nuts can come loose.Remove the upper strut mounting nuts one at a time. Remove any built up seam sealer on the threads and tower, then reinstall and re-torque the nuts to 59 ft. lbs. or 80 Nm also the center nut should be cheaked also by lossening it a little then re-torque to factory spec 36 ft.lb w/electronic suspemion or 26 ft.lb without fix mine up good no more clunking at low speeds


$670 to replace one strut mount is awfully high. The part itself is maybe something like $100 (I used KYB mounts that cost about $55 -- I'm guessing on the dealer price for OEM mounts). A good mechanic ought to be able to pull the wheel, pull the strut, compress the spring, replace the mount, and put everything back together in at most 1.5 hours. It took me 3 hours but I don't do them every day .

http://www.bogleheads.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=497798&sid=7af60cdb63a28137ba207b13d2521793

Camry Sway Bushings 17mm?

RE: 96 Rear Sway Bar Bushings - Advice Please
Pretty easy repair. Remove the two bolts holding the bracket in place. Remove bracket. Remove old bushing. Install new bushing.However, it's just as likely that the noise is coming from worn end links. But since bushings are cheaper, you may as well start there.

I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I stay current will all new technology
Visit my blog: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com/

http://www.camryforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3616

First obtain the bushings, you will need two.

Remove the tire. The bushing retainer is held on by two bolts. The retainer also has a clip at on eend. Thus with the two bolts out you may need to push the end of the retainer that is still holding on back to unhook it from the frame.

Once off, pry off and replace the bushing. If you have some teflon thread tape, wrap this around the bar a few sway bar a few times before installing the new bushing. This will help reduce friction and noise.

Install the retainer and move the sway bar into position. You may only be able to get one bolt in place at first as the bar wants to drop down. Take up most of the slack on this bolt then install the second. Once both are in, torque them down.

Once you get the hand of it, the job should take less then 1/2 per side.

The only issue for some is rusted bolts that are difficult to remove. In this case use some kind of penetrating fluid or heat.
-----------------------------------------
I've done this upgrade on my 1996 4cyl(look at the pics). The stock RSB diameter is 17mm. get 17mm bushings and you'll be good.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=257980

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