Monday, December 14, 2009

Avalon rattling noise

http://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/f49/rattle-roof-cold-days-15597/index2.html

the manager showed me yesterday after they took the top off - showed me each side as where the glass slides in (I'm sorry I'm not sure how to explain it) and pressed against it and the rattle stopped - So.. maybe.. just maybe. I will post and let you know more info if it works.

"My 2007 Camry Hybrid roof rattles. The dealer has tried to numerous remedies like tightening anything that can be tightened and placing insulation in the roof area. Nothing works. The rattle comes from the front area of the roof just above the sun visor. If I put pressure on this area when it rattles it stops. Anyone have a similar issue?"But I when I opened the sun roof (slid open) and close it, it has not come back. Maybe it wasn't closed all the way. It was odd because it took a year for this noise to start.

Oh as I was trying to explain with the lining was out - the sides (if the glass was in) there's a metal strip on each side - the driver side is the one they pressed up on and it stopped. If that makes any sence.

I have this exact issue. I get a rattle on the passenger side and light pressure near the sun visor stops it.

Just thought I would post a followup. I just picked up my Camry Hybrid from the dealership and the clunking noise has gone. The tech applied felt in both corners of moonroof structures as per TSB 0089-08, T1-91, T2-57. I hope this will be of some use to anyone else that runs in to the same problem with the 2008 Camry.

I took my Camry in to the dealership when it was still under warranty and the service advisor told me that it is a well known problem, The tech applied felt in both corners of moonroof structures as per TSB 0089-08, T1-91, T2-57. Your service center can probably do the same but since it is not under warranty you will be charged.

bmgoodman — The dash rattle (more of a clicking noise to my ears) has been reported on before in this forum, and a solution was found (I don't recall who it was, but do a search). The solution was to insert a strip of foam rubber into the narrow slot between the windshield and the dash in the areas between the tweeter grilles. I have also experienced this noise myself when the weather is cold (but not too cold!). At the moment I have experimentally inserted some pieces of corrugated cardboard into this slot, and found that they do completely eliminate the noise. I'll be replacing the cardboard with foam rubber when the weather gets warmer.

I too have this Clack / Clicking noise and my dealer told me this is caused by the metal clips used at the base of the windshield under the dash. There is a TSB he showed me that involves removing the entire dash to replace the original (all metal) clips with ones coated with rubber or something. He also stated he has done more than 5o cars as this applies to all Camry 2007 versions not just the TCH.

I went to Menards and bought some grey foam weatherstripping that is approximately 1" x 1", and inserted it in the gap between the grey dash and the windshield. I used a paint stirring stick to push it down in there.You can't see the material in there unless you look closely, and it has permanently solved the problem

Spiff, the weatherstripping I got was very basic with no backing or adhesive. It basically was like a 4' long piece of square grey foam rubber. I can't remember the exact dimensions but it came rolled up and was maybe 1" x 1". It compressed nicely into the gap between the dash and the windshield when I worked it in with the paint stirring stick. I used the whole piece and it covered probably 80% of the gap with maybe 2-3" short on each side.The nice thing is that the grey color makes it very difficult to see as it blends with the grey dash.

Thursday, December 10, 2009

Crappy Avalon negative battery terminals




Re: IS it really a dead battery or just the connection??? [stanleymartin] by fin
Oct 19, 2005 (8:00 pm)

Replying to: stanleymartin (Oct 19, 2005 7:32 pm)In years past we have discussed at length in this forum the problem of excessive corrosion around the *negative* battery post in Avalons. Most likely, it is a function of joining different types of metal and electricity. It may also be caused by the ground cable itself. You might try replacing the ground cable, and make sure you clean the negative post completely. Corrosion may occur at the other end of the cable also, but most should be at the battery. The white corrosive material blocks electrical current. A battery that tests "good" still may not have enough power to overcome the corrosion/connection problem and start the car. Try a new battery at the store and see if the car starts easily....it might be the battery. ( My '03 XL is now on the THIRD battery! ) Hope this helps...

Home :: Toyota :: Avalon :: 2001
Toyota Avalon 2001 Complaint
Complaint about ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
LANGHORNE, PA
Consumer Complaint:WHILE DRIVING VEHICLE ON 9/13/02 AT 65MPH, THERE WAS A TOTAL FAILURE IN THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FOR A SPLIT SECOND. I DISREGARDED IT THINKING THAT IT WAS MY IMAGINATION. HOWEVER, THE VERY NEXT DAY THE ENTIRE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ON THE CAR WAS DEAD MAKING THE CAR INOPERATIVE. CAUSE: DISINTEGRATION OF NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE TERMINAL END WHICH CAUSED THE NEGATIVE CABLE TO DISCONNECT FROM ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. I HAVE RESEARCHED THIS PROBLEM WITH OTHER TOYOTA OWNERS AND FOUND THAT THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM. FAILURE OF ELECTRICAL SYSTEM IS A SAFETY RELATED FUNCTION IN THAT IT COMPLETELY DISABLES THE VEHICLE. NLM
Date of Incident:20020914


http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ee9e70b/1795?@97.7TKNaOCMgds@

Toyota Quality a Fantasy by padevlin
Sep 22, 2002 (3:30 pm)

First of all, if an electrical connenction fails prematurely in a Toyota vehicle, I guess that I have only Toyota to blame in that they are the manufacturer of the vehicle. I think that is how it works. Furthermore, I have never seen a battery terminal clamp so poorly made and inadequately connected (crimped) on to the end of the cable. I do not live at or near the ocean but close to Philadelphia. The car is always garaged day and night except when in use and maintained very well. I thought; however, in spite of 4 oil changes at the dealership which cost me on average about $30 each except for the Mobil 1 which was about $80 and the supposed 19 point inspection, the dealership failed to inspect the battery cable connections. As a matter of fact, they never checked the air in the tires or any of the other fluid levels in the car. Hmmm. As for the battery cable moving or my using any of the power ports - never happened. This is a definite defective part which requires Toyota's looking into this failure because it leaves the car totally inoperable which smells like a safety defect to me. Now that I know about this defective part, I will most definitely eyeball it every time that I check and replenish the fluids. I didn't shell out over $30K on this car to have to abandon it on the highway somewhere because the electrical system crapped out due to a defective Toyota part. Cliffy, why don't you do some research on this bugger before somebody gets hurt now that you know about it? Any remedial effort on a Toyota employees part would be quite rewarding and refreshing.

#1797 of 3522
reply to padevlin Avalon Battery Posts by highlander7
Sep 22, 2002 (3:56 pm)

padevlin, I checked my wife's Avalon battery posts and see where there is a potential for failure on the negative ground connection. This appears to be a very weak connection, the wires are fed through small holes on the angle bracket that attaches to the battery. These bare wires are crimped over, I can see where a little corrosion may separate the cable from this angle bracket. As soon as you look at this you see the potential problem. This is something to keep an eye on! My 4Runner has a heavy cable that is bolted to the battery terminal connector, the way it should be done. With a 7yr / 75000 mile warranty on the Avalon, I really do not want to change anything but will adapt it to a heavier connection if it begins to fail. Now I need the advise of a mechanic or electrician. Should this connection be sprayed or coated with a anti-corrosion solution? thanks again padevlin, your post and subsequent follow-ups from others may save someone from a battery problem. In the event this connection fails, I will add a #12 wire with alligator clips on each end to my tool kit in the truck of the Avalon. At least I will know what to look for if I lose power.

Toyota Avalon negative battery cable terminal end failure by padevlin
Sep 29, 2002 (6:32 pm)

I previously asked Cliffy1, who is a Toyota employee/enthusiast, if he could find out anything about the failure of the negative battery cable terminal end. This failure is definitely safety related in that when it fails the entire electrical system goes down which disables the vehicle and leaves the driver stranded with no power, no steering and no brakes. And if after dark, obviously left dead in the roadway with no lights at all. Not a very good situation in the middle of an interstate with a 65 mph limit in the middle of the night. I have not seen any response from Cliffy1; I would think that being a Toyota employee/enthusiast you would be able to research this problem and come up with some answers. My dealer's service
Toyota Quality a Fantasy by padevlin
Sep 30, 2002 (4:50 pm)

Thank you one and all for your input. As I mentioned, the main reason that I even posted this problem with the battery terminal end was to forewarn other owners and thereby hopefully prevent them and/or their loved ones from being put in harm's way from the failure of their car's electrical system. I have taken the car to the Toyota dealer; I have had the cable replaced; I have had the battery checked out; I have begun to cast a wary eye on the cables/ends, etc.

Thanks for the replies-I had all but given up and was going to have the vehicle towed to a shop. The wrecker driver removed 2 bolts to the positive clamp(where two wires come together to the clamp)Even though I had dilligently cleaned the external area-these two small metal plates had corrosion where they sandwiched between the two bolts)He cleaned them and the car starts beautifully.Even though I needlessly replaced the starter- I would have needed a starter eventually...It's always the small things I overlook----- Lessons learned............

The cables that goes from your battery itself. The large red one goes to your starter, black one is the ground. Where each one connects may have corrosion in them which keeps the juice from your battery from reaching the starter. You may even have enough to run your acc like radio, int lights, maybe even headlights but, not enough to turn the starter. The accessories and headlights draw between roughly 1-10 amps. A starter draws 150-200 amps.


toyota avalon start up problem by bkgk
Sep 29, 2006 (1:54 am)

I have a 2000 Toyota Avalon xl. I have not had any problems. Yesterday my car would not start. It makes a loud clicking sound and it can't be jumped off. I read in the previous messages that a cable may be bad, but what cable?

#53 of 100
Re: Toyota Avalon 2000 start up problem [alkric] by steve326a
Sep 29, 2006 (4:05 am)

Replying to: alkric (Aug 22, 2006 2:24 pm)The cables that goes from your battery itself. The large red one goes to your starter, black one is the ground. Where each one connects may have corrosion in them which keeps the juice from your battery from reaching the starter. You may even have enough to run your acc like radio, int lights, maybe even headlights but, not enough to turn the starter. The accessories and headlights draw between roughly 1-10 amps. A starter draws 150-200 amps.

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

90k mi servicing for 2001 Avalon

http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/detail.html?year=2001&make=14&model=100000243&styleId=100001834&engCode=6VNAG3.0&transCode=AUTOMATIC&mileage=87000&zip=62525

http://www.aboutautomobile.com/MaintenanceSchedule/2001/Toyota/Avalon

Servicing 2001 Avalon transmission

http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0e8b10
Change 2002 Avalon Automatic Transmission Fluid [xomaman] by xomaman
Feb 18, 2008 (12:49 pm)
Save Reply
Replying to: xomaman (Jul 08, 2007 11:39 am)Just to folllow up... I ended up flushing the transmission myself. So far it has been 8 months and everything is fine. The fluid is nice and red. I flushed it myself using instructions I found on the Internet. Now that I have done it, I trust doing it myself over a tranny shop because I will use more care and pay more attention. It's fairly easy if you have a garage and basic tools.

I bought the Dextron III fluid at WalMart. I found that my model Avalon only has a screen as a filter, so I decided not to remove the pan. I had the car on those drive-up ramps while doing this.

1. I drained the tranny pan, refilled it with new fluid and replaced the plug.

2. I then removed the tranny return line from the radiator and stuck about 6' of clear 3/8" tubing on there as a return line. The return line then ran into a large container off to the side to hold the old fluid. Use a clear container with quart marks so you can watch it and keep track of how much is coming out. I used a clear 4 gallon cooking oil container. I guess a gallon milk jug could work too. Make sure it won't tip over as it is filling. The radiator return line on my Avalon is at the bottom of the radiator on the driver's side. Or, if you lift the hood it will be the tranny line on the right as you are looking down. You need to remove the cover plate from under the car to access that area. Have patience, the hose clips and line can be a pain to get off.

3. I then removed the tranny dipstick and put a tranny fluid funnel in there. Then, with the help of my sexy assistant, I started the car. The tranny will pump the old fluid out and into the container from the exit line. It comes out as a full stream but with not a lot of pressure. It only takes about 30 seconds for a few quarts to come out. I wouldn't do it without an assistant to start and stop the car as you are watching it come out and pouring new fluid in. As the car is running, you need to pour new fluid in the filler tube as the old is being pushed out. Do a few quarts at a time at about the same rate as what is being pumped out. Eventually the fluid will be coming out clear which means all the old fluid is out. You need to buy a few more quarts than what the tranny holds. So...You are basically pouring fresh tranny fluid in the filler tube while the old tranny fluid is being pushed out through the hose you attached to the radiator return line, and this flushes the whole system...get it?

That's exactly how it works at the tranny shop for $110 + dollars. I used 15 quarts of Penzoil Dextron III. Be careful and don't overfill it. Later check the fluid level several times on level ground as described in the owner manual. It's better to add a quart than having to drain one.

Here is a link to a Lexus tranny flush tutorial. It's for a Lexus, but the basic idea is the same for the Avalon; transmission/transflush.html" target=_blank>http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/transmission/transflush.html

Monday, December 7, 2009

xle comps--the day after

Filter for 2007 or newer camrys with leather seats near champaign.


Sunday, December 6, 2009

Tips on changing spark plugs in I4 engine

If you're using a spark plug socket with the rubber insert, and the insert is loose, don't use the rubber.

Instead, use a screwdriver and duct tape to retrieve the plug once loosened.

Wrap duct tape around the tip of the screwdriver sticky side out. Then use more duct tape above that point to secure it from slipping.

Use this tool to retrieve the spark plug, and also to lower the new spark plug into the vertical hole.

The hole is so deep that the rachet extension will remain essentially vertical.

Another tip: if the plugs have not been changed for >50K mi, they may appear seized. Unscrew them gradually for 2-3 quarter turns, then reverse and retighten. This seems to clear the threads, and then the plugs will come out more easily.

Also use some anti-seize compound on the threads of the new plugs. There is electrolytic action between plugs and aluminum blocks.

Adjusting trunk latch

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/archive/index.php/%3C/t-185133.html

then you need to adjust the lock down there are 2 bolts that you need to loosen and slide the actuater down so it hits inside the lock.


http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/archive/index.php/%3C/t-78342.html

Here is the torsional arm that will hold up the trunk, push the U shaped section towards the body/outside. Thar will give you some more slack for the following:


Here is a trim removal tool... worth every penny, and a 10mm wrench:
Remove the bolt on the hook with wrench and then use the trim removal tool to take off the hook and trim plug:

Now you should see this:

Make sure you sit inside trunk and make sure it is fully open,
Put your hand on the rod, push up and Pull the rod out and move to the upper slot.


EDIT: Do the same to both sides if a bit more tension is needed,

First you have to slide the Ushaped section towards the body on the opposite side.
Push up to releive the spring on the slot hole at the 90 deg. bent end and then pull out.

Saturday, December 5, 2009

Our New Camry











2006 CAMRY DX 4DR 4cyl 5sp-MAN BLACK

VIN 4t1bg12k2tu690318

Engine: I4 2.2L

Tires: P205/65R15 Firestone Firehawk

Timing belt/waterpump

CV/axle

Radiator replaced

Battery




camry dash noises

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2980267


Page 20 of the Instrument Panel manual Step 7.

The manual can be located at:
http://www.camrystuff.com/index.php?page=Gen6_Manuals

I have a newly purchased certified 07 and I thought the "comprehensive 3 month warranty" might cover this. It doesn't and the dealer quoted me $500-600 to fix the clips. The clips called out in the TSB are about $10. I'm thinking of biting this off myself, but they talk about using some "EPT foam" on various bits too as well as felt. I'm not sure what kind of foam I could lay my hands to do the job myself.

so does it have to be cold to have dash board rattles?because im in the N.O. and my dash rattles/creaks all the time and it sure is not cold here...and im definitly out of warrenty...about how much would the tsb cost me?any ideas? thanks guys

For my 07 the nosies only surfaced when the temperature was below 30 degrees F. Once the interior warmed up the nosies went away. The TSB when I had it done called for 6-1/2 hours of labor. I understand it's a bit less now, but figure the dealer labor charge in your area (probably about $100 an hour) to get an estimate of the cost.

For me, tt rattled also when it was warm. I've just removed ALL ratles by simply pushing some self-adhesive felt ( bought in furniture shop) between dashboard and windscreen. I am shocked that the operation that took 5 mins removed the rattle noises completely

I have a very "common" problem of dashboard rattle sound in my 07 V6 camry. I know a TSB NV008-07 is out there to address the problem but Just wondering someone in Toronto or Mississauga got it fixed by applying the TSB?

I then took it to Whitby Toyota and they had it for half a day to install the 'noise kit'. It helped a great deal but it's still not perfect, again especially in cold weather. In the summer it's as quiet as a mouse.

Just looked at my invoice from the Canadian dealer - it doesn't actually reference a TSB. The invoice has an "FP Number" of 08231-00801-WA with a description of "Noise Kit". The 'Correction' states "R&R Dash to insulate".

I had mine done last Thursday. It's quite as a mouse now. On the ticket they reference the TSB and two noise kits: wind noise kit and noise kit.

I dropped my car off the night before. That way it sat all night and got good and cold. They tried immediatley in the morning and the dash made all kinds of noise. They applied the TSB and no more rattles. It's been a couple of weeks now and everything is still silent.

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Rattling: upper strut mounts or sway bar bushings

These cars were known for 2 types of suspension rattles. If its in the front, I'd suspect the upper strut mounts. They would make noise even if there was no signs of loosness or wear. Fairly easy to change if you have a spring compressor. Be sure to line up the flat spots with the new mounts before tightening. If its in the rear, The sway bar bushings is what I would look at. The slightest bit of wear makes these noisy.

Read more: http://www.justanswer.com/questions/23op8-just-aquired-1997-toyota-camry#ixzz0YTcyoUP3

http://www.justanswer.com/questions/23op8-just-aquired-1997-toyota-camry

Replacing sway bar bushing

Possibly sway bar bushings. I just replaced mine on my 94 and it was doing exactly as you describe. They really are not much to replace. There is a bolt at each end that needs to come off and you just replace it. I went to the junk yard and picked up two off a car with low mileage and the bushings were in good shape. Usually just the back sway bars need replaced. There are two on each side. Try this, jack up the car and grab the tire at 3:00 and 9:00 (right and left) and see if the the wheel moves from side to side. Have someone else do it while you look at the bushing at the end of the sway bar and you will see it move if its bad. If the sway bar is good then it will be solid when you try to move the tire from side to side. The only problem I had when I changed mine was on the inner end of the sway bar. You have to hold the end of the bolt while you loosen the nut and the head of the bolt is in a little like cup and there is not enough room for a socket and rachet and a wrench would not fit in either. I bent the edge of the gas tank up slightly till I got a socket in to hold it.

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_could_be_causing_a_rattling_noise_and_sway_in_the_rear_of_a_1995_Toyota_Camry

Camry upper strut cushion

I have a '98 Camry and replaced the struts (but not the mounts) at ~100K. Then the mounts went bad within another 25K. Once they were replaced that annoying low speed rattle went away. But now it's back at 187K. I'm learning to live with it. This answer from a Toyota forum looked like an interesting avenue to pursue, however:

Quote:
Camrys and Avalons may exhibit a rattling or popping noise from the front suspension at low speeds. In most cases these noises have been traced to the upper strut cushion attachment to the strut tower. The upper surface of the tower is covered with a seam sealer prior to painting and becomes compressed when the upper strut mounting nuts are tightened. When the sealer wears away, the upper strut mounting nuts can come loose.Remove the upper strut mounting nuts one at a time. Remove any built up seam sealer on the threads and tower, then reinstall and re-torque the nuts to 59 ft. lbs. or 80 Nm also the center nut should be cheaked also by lossening it a little then re-torque to factory spec 36 ft.lb w/electronic suspemion or 26 ft.lb without fix mine up good no more clunking at low speeds


$670 to replace one strut mount is awfully high. The part itself is maybe something like $100 (I used KYB mounts that cost about $55 -- I'm guessing on the dealer price for OEM mounts). A good mechanic ought to be able to pull the wheel, pull the strut, compress the spring, replace the mount, and put everything back together in at most 1.5 hours. It took me 3 hours but I don't do them every day .

http://www.bogleheads.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=497798&sid=7af60cdb63a28137ba207b13d2521793

Camry Sway Bushings 17mm?

RE: 96 Rear Sway Bar Bushings - Advice Please
Pretty easy repair. Remove the two bolts holding the bracket in place. Remove bracket. Remove old bushing. Install new bushing.However, it's just as likely that the noise is coming from worn end links. But since bushings are cheaper, you may as well start there.

I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I stay current will all new technology
Visit my blog: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com/

http://www.camryforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3616

First obtain the bushings, you will need two.

Remove the tire. The bushing retainer is held on by two bolts. The retainer also has a clip at on eend. Thus with the two bolts out you may need to push the end of the retainer that is still holding on back to unhook it from the frame.

Once off, pry off and replace the bushing. If you have some teflon thread tape, wrap this around the bar a few sway bar a few times before installing the new bushing. This will help reduce friction and noise.

Install the retainer and move the sway bar into position. You may only be able to get one bolt in place at first as the bar wants to drop down. Take up most of the slack on this bolt then install the second. Once both are in, torque them down.

Once you get the hand of it, the job should take less then 1/2 per side.

The only issue for some is rusted bolts that are difficult to remove. In this case use some kind of penetrating fluid or heat.
-----------------------------------------
I've done this upgrade on my 1996 4cyl(look at the pics). The stock RSB diameter is 17mm. get 17mm bushings and you'll be good.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=257980

***Car List***

savoy 07 xle beige/tan leather 59kmi $16K
worden-martin

indy 07 xle silver/ash leather 4cyl 38kmi $17,7
ed martin acura
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peoria ford 07 exl silver/gray heated leather 4cyl 33kmi $16,4
finishLineFord

naperville 07 exl gray/tan heated leather 4cyl 35kmi $16
excellenceCarsDirect

westmont 07 exl carbon/ivory leather 4cyl 17kmi $17,5
mcgrath acura

stl Fusz 06 EX silver/gray heated leather V6 56kmi $15
Fusz 07 EX silver 39kmi $17
Fusz 07 EXL silver 17kmi $19 fusz toyota

=============================================
stl 05 tsx silver/ tan leather 4cyl 32kmi $15,7 accident
leta acura

holland, mi 05 tsx silver/ leather 4 cyl 54kmi $14,5
crown motors
=============================================
champaign student 07 exl silver cloth 29kmi $15

STL alignment shop

Monday, November 23, 2009

2007 EX noLeather 38K $16K

http://www.carmax.com/enUS/view-car/default.html?AVi=0&id=6204605&D=60&ASTc=accord%20ex&zip=62525&sM=NA-40000&sY=2006-2008&pD=0&pI=0&pT=400&pC=200&pB=0&No=0&Ep=homepage:homepage&Rp=R&PP=20&sV=List&Us=14&CD=240+9&Q=7d73c634-6899-4722-8a1f-6cae7891a0f7

2007 Honda Accord EX 4D SedanSunroof(s), Air Conditioning, Cruise Control more...
Miles38K
Drive2WD
TransmissionAutomatic
ExteriorTaupe
InteriorTan Cloth
Stock #6204605

2007 EX certified noLeather $16K Honda on Grand

Certified 2007 Honda Accord EX Sedan
$15,988

Price$15,988
Mileage36,933
Body StyleSedan
Exterior Color
Moonroof
Interior ColorGray
Engine4 Cylinder Gasoline
Transmission5 Speed Automatic
Drive Type2 wheel drive - front
Fuel TypeGasoline
DoorsFour Door
Stock No.P1504

Saturday, November 21, 2009

Why buy Honda Certified?

Warranty

Every Honda Certified Used Car comes with peace of mind: one of the most extensive used-car warranties in the business. So you can drive off the lot feeling confident about your purchase.

These warranties cover:
Major engine and transmission components, except for standard maintenance items, body glass and interior.

The repair or replacement of any covered part that is defective in material or workmanship under normal use. With a $0 deductible.

Powertrain coverage for 7-years/100,000-miles (whichever comes first) from the vehicle's original in-service date.

Non-Powertrain coverage for 12-month/12,000-miles (whichever comes first) from the original warranty expiration date, or if the original warranty has expired, from the Honda Certified Used Cars purchase date.

Inspection

Every Honda Certified Used Car goes through our certification process to make sure it lives up to Honda's high standards. And only well-maintained Honda vehicles are eligible for certification, a process that includes:


An exhaustive 150-point mechanical and appearance inspection, performed by the dealer technician, in which all major vehicles systems are scrutinized, including brakes, engine, drivetrain, steering, suspension, tires, wheels, exhaust system and vehicle interior and exterior.

A process where Honda-trained technicians recondition any component that does not meet our standards, or replace it with Genuine Honda parts.

All scheduled maintenance services are brought up-to-date.

A free CARFAX Vehicle History report to assure that your Honda Certified Used Car does not contain any DMV-reported incidents such as salvage, fire, flood damage, odometer problems or lemon history.

Friday, November 20, 2009

McGrath Acura 2007 EXL leather 17Kmi $17K

2007 Honda Accord EX-L - $17,491 Dealer: McGrath Acura of Westmont Call: 888-487-6585


Mileage: 17,167
Body Style: Sedan
Exterior Color: Carbon Bronze Pearl
Interior Color: Ivory
Stock #: K3312A
VIN: 1HGCM56857A163082
Engine: 2.4L I4
Transmission: AUTO 5SPD
Drivetrain: FWD
Doors: 4
Wheelbase: 108"

Standard Equipment: Fuel Consumption: Highway: 34, Remote Power Door Locks, Power Windows, Cruise Controls On Steering Wheel, Cruise Control, 4-Wheel ABS Brakes, Front Ventilated Disc Brakes, 1st And 2nd Row Curtain Head Airbags, Passenger Airbag, Side Airbag, Power Glass Sunroof, Audio System Security, In-Dash 6-Disc CD Player, Am/Fm/Satellite Radio, Total Number Of Speakers: 6, Privacy Glass: Light, Silver Alloy Rims, Wheel Diameter: 16, Wheel Width: 6.5, Leather Steering Wheel Trim, Leather Shift Knob Trim, Metal-Look Dash Trim, Metal-Look Door Trim, Metal-Look Center Console Trim, External Temperature Display, Tachometer, Power Remote Driver Mirror Adjustment, Heated Driver Mirror, Heated Passenger Mirror, Power Remote Passenger Mirror Adjustment, Dual Illuminated Vanity Mirrors, Daytime Running Lights, Driver And Passenger Heated-Cushion, Driver Heated-Seatback, Remote Window Operation, Audio Controls On Steering Wheel, Power Remote Trunk Release, Front Reading Lights, Anti-Theft Alarm System, Leather Seat Upholstery, Bucket Front Seats, Rear Bench, Fold Forward Seatback Rear Seats, Rear Seats Center Armrest With Pass-Thru, Tilt And Telescopic Steering Wheel, Speed-Proportional Power Steering, Suspension Class: Regular, Interior Air Conditioning Air Filtration, Automatic Front Air Conditioning, Dual Front Air Conditioning Zones, Cargo Area Light, Max Cargo Capacity: 14, Fuel Type: Regular Unleaded, Fuel Capacity: 17.1, Instrumentation: Low Fuel Level, Clock: In-Radio, Headlights Off Auto Delay, Coil Front Spring, Regular Front Stabilizer Bar, Independent Front Suspension Classification, Double Wishbone Front Suspension, Four-Wheel Independent Suspension, Coil Rear Spring, Rear Stabilizer Bar: Regular, Independent Rear Suspension, Multi-Link Rear Suspension, Front And Rear Suspension Stabilizer Bars, Variable Intermittent Front Wipers, Steel Spare Wheel Rim, Spare Tire Mount Location: Inside Under Cargo, Grill With Chrome Bar, Overall Length: 191.1

Ohio: Lindsay Honda 2007 EX 25Kmi $17,6K

1-888-484-5097

Price
$17,677
Mileage
25,076
Body Style
Sedan
Exterior Color
Carbon Bronze Pearl
Interior Color
Ivory W/Leather Seat Trim
Engine
4 Cylinder Gasoline
Transmission
5 Speed Automatic
Drive Type
2 wheel drive - front
Fuel Type
Gasoline
Doors
Four Door
Stock No.
13842
------------------------------------------------------
Retail Price $21,995*
Internet Blowout $18,877*

Condition:Pre-Owned Clear Title
Mileage:19,824
Stock No:D10-408A
Transmission:5 Spd Automatic
Engine:2.4L L4 MPI SOHC 16V
Warranty:Warranty Available
Exterior Color:Desert Mist Metallic
Interior Color:Ivory w/Leather Seat Trim

Honda of Joliet certi 2007 exl 27Kmi $19K

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=c&car_id=262739485&dealer_id=342803&car_year=2007&rdm=1258738571650&lastStartYear=1981&model=ACCORD&num_records=25&systime=&make2=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&mod_bookmark_id=29599200&start_year=2007&keywordsfyc=__ZXg%2C__&keywordsrep=101120&engine=4 Cylinder&certified=&body_code=8&fuel=&awsp=false&search_type=both&distance=300&marketZipError=false&search_lang=en&showZipError=n&make=HONDA&keywords_display=ex&color=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&min_price=&body_style=SEDAN&drive=&default_sort=priceASC&seller_type=b&max_mileage=30000&style_flag=2&sort_type=distance&address=62525&feature4=leather seats&advanced=y&end_year=2010&doors=&transmission=&max_price=22000&cardist=127&standard=false

1-866-466-5945


Price
$18,995
Mileage
27,600
Body Style
Sedan
Exterior Color
Graphite Pearl
Interior Color
Gray
Engine
4 Cylinder Gasoline
Transmission
5 Speed Automatic
Drive Type
2 wheel drive - front
Fuel Type
Gasoline
Doors
Four Door

Power Seat,Multi CD Player,Power Door Locks,Power Windows,Alloy Wheels,Air Conditioning,Tilt Steering Wheel,Cruise Control,Keyless Entry,Dual Power Mirrors,Power Moonroof,Heated Seat(s),Dual Air Bags,Rear Window Defroster,Leather Upholstery

OHare Auto 2006 EXLV6 36Kmi $19K

http://www.carsdirect.com/used_cars/vehicle_detail/ul125567565/Honda/Accord%20Sdn

1509 River Rd
Des Plaines , IL 60018
http://www.ohareautogroup.com/

2006 Honda Accord Sdn
$18,991
Trim:
EXLV6
Miles:
36,251
Transmission:
5-SPEED AUTOMATIC W/OD
Engine:
Gas V6 3.0L/183
Exterior:
Alabaster Silver Metallic
Interior:
Black
Doors:
4
Certified:
yes
VIN: 1HGCM66506A043152

ONE OWNER 100% AUTOCHECK GUARANTEED !!!NON-SMOKER ~ VERY CLEAN INTERIOR this vehicle comes with an extended CERTIFIED PRE-OWNED VEHICLE WARRANTY BUY WITH CONFIDENCE !!! All of our vehicles are reconditioned using a strict 150 POINT MECHANICAL INSPECTION *** for more INFORMATION and AVAILABILITY PLEASE CONTACT MARK J at 1-847-553-3162***

STL Fusz 2007 EX $18K


ToyotaofWestCounty 2006 EX $15K SOLD




Planet Honda Matteson, IL 2006 EX $15K


http://hondacertifiedsearch.com/cuvphase2/EntryServlet?selModel=Accord Sedan&entryId=18161702398345845025&zipCode=61801&selRange=250&selModel=Accord+Sedan&selCategory=Any&trans=on&transmission=Any&selYearStart=2006&selYearEnd=all&selPrice=20000&orderBy=model&sortBy=ascending&startIndex=1

Thursday, November 19, 2009

Chicago Honda dealers $16-19K




Honda on Grand $17K




Twin City 2006 EXL V6 $18K




Carmax 2007 $19K


BOB LINDSAY HONDA OF PEORIA $18K

BOB LINDSAY HONDA OF PEORIA
From: Larry Cook (Internet Manager)

Rod Kahn,We have the following Honda Accords for sale with the Leather Seats in the years 2006 to 2008:

2008 Accord EX-L - 4 cylinder - 34,000 miles - $19,958.00 - Honda Certified
2007 Accord EX-L - 4 cylinder - 39,000 miles - $17,987.00 - Honda Certified
2007 Accord EX-L - V-6 - 25,000 miles - $18,896.00 - Honda Certified
2007 Accord EX-L - V-6 - 27,000 miles - $19,388.00 - Honda Certified

If I can answer specific questions regarding these vehicles please contact me at your convenience.Sincerely,Larry CookInternet ManagerPhone 309-692-3200Bob Lindsay Honda of Peoriawww.boblindsayhonda.com

SpiritToyota STL $18K




Newer Avalons







Newer Camrys







Newer Accords







Tuesday, November 10, 2009

CRV--changing the differential oil




Supplies Required: (Photo 2) (Available at your dealer or HandA)


A) 2 Quarts of Honda Dual Pump Fluid II (Capacity of the 2007 is 1.3 quarts)


B) 2 Crush Washers, 20 mm, Honda Part Number 94109 – 20000




Caution! You must use Honda Dual Pump Fluid II. Using any other fluid will result in the destruction of the clutch plates in the rear differential. (Photo 3)




Tools Required: (Photo 2)


A) 3/8" ratchet


B) 3/8" extension 3” long (optional)


C) collection pan – big enough to hold 1.3 quarts (I cut down a windshield washer fluid jug, milk jugs are too flimsy)


D) rags or paper towels


E) 5/8" Outside Diameter Hose 10’ long Weber brand available at Lowes.


F) Funnel and hose clamp also available at Lowes (Items E & F were $6.00 total)


G) Scotch Bright or a pan scrubber




Time Required: 30 to 45 minutes




Procedure:


Step 1. Change into some grubby clothes. To protect your skin from contact with the fluid, wear oil resistant gloves.


Step 2. Shut off your engine, make sure the car is in park and the brake is set.


Step 3. Collect your supplies and tools. You don't need to jack the car up. It is a little harder without the car elevated, but it is much safer. Do not jack up your car unless you are very knowledgeable on how to raise the car and support it safely.


Step 4. (Photo 4). Gather your drain pan, ratchet, 3” extension, and paper towels. Let’s take a peek in the nether regions and see what we are getting into. Photo 4 shows the rear differential and the locations of the fill and drain plugs. Each plug has a square 3/8” hole that matches the square drive of a 3/8” drive ratchet. We will use a short extension to get the ratchet head out away from the housing. Personally I hate that “righty tighty lefty loosey” nonsense. Before you climb under, set the ratchet so that it turns the extension in the counter-clockwise direction, and ratchets in the clockwise direction. Under the car, facing the wrong way, it is easy to get it backwards.


Step 5. (Photo 5) Take a piece of Scotch Bright or a pan scour pad and clean the areas around each plug. The goal is not to make it shiny, but to knock off the loose crud so that it won’t end up in your differential. Caution! If you have driven the vehicle in the past few minutes, feel the differential housing. If it feels hot to the touch, let the differential cool some more before working on it.


Step 6. (Photo 6) OK, now the fun starts. I was totally amazed at how tight both plugs were. Make sure your ratchet is set to spin the extension Counter Clockwise and ratchet in the Clockwise direction. You really don’t want to tighten this plug. We are going to loosen the fill plug first. Why? There have been reports of being able to get the drain plug out but not the fill…a bit of a sticky wicket one would think. Alright, put the square end of the extension into the plug. Try to pay some attention to where your knuckles will end up when the plug breaks loose. Pusssshhh! Agggghhhh! Crack! Sounds like a gun going off. Use one of the paper towels to wipe up the blood from your knuckles. Don’t take the plug out, just loosen it.




Step 12 (Photo 12 a & 12b) When you open your bottle of Genuine Honda Dual Pump Fluid II (the only thing you can use), be sure to remove all of the foil seal. While her ladyship, the lovely Dame Black Pearl provided precision pouring (photo 12 a), I manned the nether regions to keep an eye on the progress (photo 12 b). Pour in the entire first quart. Then slowly add the 0.3 (9.6 ounces) of the second quart. Somewhere between 8 to 10 ounces, it started to run out of the fill hole.


Step 13 Place a new crush washer on the fill plug (photo 13 a). When the fluid runs out the fill hole, pull out the fill hose and re-install the fill plug with the new crush washer. Torque the plug to 35 ft-lbs. (photo 13 b). Remove the fill hose from the nether regions of your V. Use care not to slop fluid on the exhaust pipe or rear brake disk and calipers.


Step 14 Tightly recap the unused portion of remaining second quart. Drain the residual oil from your fill hose and store it in plastic bag so it doesn’t get dirty. Clean up the mess. Recycle the fluid. If your other scheduled services are done, reset the Maintenance Minder. (Photo 14) Record the mileage and date in your maintenance records. Keep your receipts to protect your warranty.


Photo 15: The used oil. Hmmmm! Not the greatest looking stuff. It didn’t smell bad. I checked the bottom of the pan and there was no particulate. This oil has 16,000 miles. Suburban driving, no off road, no immersions in water, and a little winter action but not excessive. I have had no noise problems.

Monday, November 9, 2009

Camry oil pan gasket

All you have to do is: Remove all bolts holding it on after you drain the oil from it...I don't use no kind of gasket sealer on oil pans...Only around the front and rear seals of it,I clean both areas with denatured alcohol before installing.Use the Fram brand rubber gasket set with the metal inserts in it for the best seal.

The pan is not hard to remove, you do have to move the exhaust also and there is 1 bracket that needs to be removed.The gasket is FIPG (Form in place gasket), that is what Toyota uses.It is just fine to use that.
Source(s):
10 Year Toyota Master

I don't think the sealer is the problem but rather the application of it.Make sure that at the rear of the oil pan the sealer is applied all the way across the sealing area, I have seen many mechanics, including myself make this mistake,if you apply the sealer just to the middle it will leak at the rear of the pan because of the way the rear mainseal housing lines up with the oil pan, take a close look.

http://www.ehow.com/how_4521017_drop-oil-pan-toyota-camry.html

Use a jack to raise the vehicle off the ground and support it using a jack stand. Follow the jack manufacturer's directions for proper use.
Step 2
Drain the oil from the Camry by sliding under the vehicle and locating the oil pan in the center portion of the engine block, just center of the front tires. Place an oil drip pan below the oil pan, use a wrench to unscrew and remove the oil drain plug, and allow all oil to drain before replacing the drain plug.
Step 3
Open the hood of the vehicle and remove the negative battery cable located on the battery box towards the very front of the vehicle on the left-hand side. Use a wrench to disconnect the bolts holding it in place.
Step 4
Remove the fender apron seal, under cover and the front exhaust pipe bracket from the oil pan using a wrench to remove the bolts holding these in place. Use a wrench to remove the flywheel housing undercover by removing the bolts holding it in place.
Step 5
Unscrew each of the oil pan bolts located around the outer edge of the oil pan. Support the oil pan with one hand while removing the bolts as the oil pan will fall slightly.
Step 6
Disconnect the oil strainer and gasket before removing the oil pan. To pull the oil pan off, remove the baffle plate from the oil pan using a wrench.


I own a 1996 Toyota Camry and it cost me about $20. The job is easy enough that you yourself can do it, rather then paying a mechanic an arm and a leg. Your best bet is to put the car up on ramps.. If you don't have ramps try to borrow them from a friend. Jacks are too unsturdy for a job like this. Afer you have the vechicle safety up on ramps then you must first drain your oil pan. The plug is located right on the bottom of the oil pan, just unscrew it. Be sure to have a pan underneath to catch the oil. Then after all the oil is drained you can now remove the exaust pipe that has blocked a part of the oil pan. If you follow the exaust all the way to the front where it ends you will see three bolts holding it onto the car.. Remove these bolts. You will want to make sure you have purchased not only the oil pan gasket and sealer for the gasket.. But also the sealer and gasket for the exaust.. These only run about $5-10 each. Then after removing the exaust push it to the side.. Then you may now start to unbolt the twenty something bolts that connect the oil pan.. After doing this be sure to scrap off any remaining gasket left on the oil pan... The stores sell gasket remover to make it easier to scrap off. Then apply the sealer directly to the oil pan then add the gasket.. Then put the new oil pan gasket and pan back on the car.. And that is all... This process takes about One hour if done correctly.. One hour from start to finsh.. Hope this has helped you in some way.

I know i have a bad cv joint. My question is this causing the rotating road noise coming from the front. It sounds like a bad tire but the tires are new.

cv joints normally cause a knocking noise when turning, the noise you mention may be the joint, but it may be a wheel bearing going out. it's really hard to know without hearing the noise, i would get it diagnosed and have both repaired at the same time.

Sunday, November 8, 2009

Camry getting old

Changed the oil today, and after refilling the crankcase, I started the engine. Oil started dripping on the ground. Turned out to be from the oil pan gasket. Tightened it up, and put in oil thickener.

Driver side CV boot looks cracked, and throwing grease. Wouldn't you know it, one side goes, the other side is right behind.

Maybe that is the grinding road noise we've been hearing.
Or is that wheel bearings?

Monday, May 4, 2009

Honda Mower Parts

Honda HR215 SDM with GV-200 engine

http://www.planopower.com/store/honda/gv200.shtml



Look around your local garden store or auto parts store and find the right replacement plug (Honda mowers use a special NGK plug. Some Autozone plugs will also work).
---------------------------------------







http://www.chainsaws-etc.com/honda_belts.htm
http://www.chainsaws-etc.com/honda_air_filters.htm

http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/dealerlocator/
Farm & Fleet Of Decatur #23
1191 W South Side Dr
Decatur, IL 62521-4070
(217)423-3720

Macon County Rural King Supply, Inc.
1920 S Mount Zion Rd
Decatur, IL 62521-9716
(217)864-5700

Heath's Outdoor Center
600 W Bridge St
Monticello, IL 61856-1034
(217)762-2534

http://www.rcpw.com/aftermarket/honda-140.asp
http://www.rustrepair.com/lawn_mower_parts/onlinecat.htm?r=mp&p=mm-hondam
http://www.rcpw.com/aftermarket/265694.asp
http://search.cartserver.com/search/search.cgi?cartid=a-8491&sm=4&maxhits=20&category=HONDA&keywords=23161-***-771&go=GO%21
http://www.planopower.com/store/honda/index_mowers.shtml
http://www.psep.biz/store/honda_mower_belt.htm
http://www.planopower.com/store/honda/hr21-5sda.shtml

Finding Model and Serial Numbers:
Older (Pre-1995) Models

On most Honda lawnmowers made prior to 1995, it's a little difficult to determine your precise model number. The model ID tag (right) may have something like HR214-CF, HRA214-DL, HR215-EF, HRM215-OL, HRB215-FJ, etc. In such cases, the last two letters in the silver box are not part of your model number. We repeat, those last two letters on the model tag are not part of the model number. We've been selling Honda lawnmowers for over 25 years and still have no idea what those last two letters mean.

Once you know your basic model (such as HR21, HR214, HRM215) found on the shroud, you need to know which model type you have. These are the model number suffixes like PDA, HXA, and SMA. If your model number tag doesn't give you a complete model number, Look on the front of the deck near the muffler. You should see a PX, PD, (push models) SD, SX, HX, TD (self-propelled models) or something similar. These tell about some of the features of the mower and are part of your model number. The A means that the mower was made for the American market. Since all of these models are for the American market, the final A is implied. If your mower is where you can't look at it right now, you might be able to pick it out by comparing the features with the models listed below. Here's what these extra letters in the model number suffix mean (At least since 1985):

First Letter:
S - Self Propelled (Gear Drive)
P - Push
Second Letter:
X - Blade Brake Clutch (Only blade stops when handle is released)
D - Flywheel Brake/Zone Start (Engine Stops when handle is released)
M - Electric Start, Blade Brake Clutch
You will also need to know which version you have. Honda may make small changes in a model from time to time. The new version will have approximately the same specifications as the previous one, so it's not given a new model number. Instead, Honda gives it a new K number. The HRM215 is replaced by the HRM215K1 which is replaced by the HRM215K2, and so on. Some of the changes are obvious, but some are not. The most reliable way to tell which K number your mower has is by using the frame serial number, usually located on the deck near where the handles are connected. Where needed, we list the serial number ranges for the different versions below.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Key
S/P = Self-Propelled
BBC = Blade Brake-Clutch - Only the blade stops when handle is released.
Zone = Zone Start (Flywheel Brake) - Engine stops when handle is released.
E/S = Electric Start
Cast = Cast Aluminum Deck Construction
Steel = Steel (Sheet Metal) Deck Construction
Poly = Polymer (Plastic) Deck Construction

Really Old (before 1985) Models

HR21PDA* (1978-1979) 21" 3.5 hp Push BBC Points Ignition Cast
(Frame Serial HR21-1000001-1051093)

HR21PXA* (1978-1979) 21" 3.5 hp Push BBC Electronic Ignition Cast
(Frame Serial HR21-1000001-1051093)

HR21SDA* (1978-1979) 21" 3.5 hp S/P BBC Points Ignition Cast
(Frame Serial HR21-1000001-1051093)

HR21SXA* (1978-1979) 21" 3.5 hp S/P BBC Electronic Ignition Cast
(Frame Serial HR21-1000001-1051093)

HR21K1PDA* (1979-1980) 21" 3.5 hp Push BBC Points Ignition Cast
(Frame Serial HR21-1100004-1127597)

HR21K1PXA* (1979-1980) 21" 3.5 hp Push BBC Electronic Ignition Cast
(Frame Serial HR21-1100004-1127597)

HR21K1SDA* (1979-1980) 21" 3.5 hp S/P BBC Points Ignition Cast
(Frame Serial HR21-1100004-1127597)

HR21K1SXA* (1979-1980) 21" 3.5 hp S/P BBC Electronic Ignition Cast
(Frame Serial HR21-1100004-1127597)

HR21K2PDAM* (1980-1983) 21" 3.5 hp Push BBC Points Ignition Cast
(Frame Serial HR21-1200141 and up)

HR21K2SXA/SXAM* (1980-1983) 21" 3.5 hp S/P BBC Electronic Ignition Cast
(Frame Serial HR21-1200141 and up)

HRA21SDA/SDAW* (1982-1983) 21" 3.5 hp S/P BBC Points Steel (Frame Serial HR21-5-1000001 and up)

HR21-5SDA/SDAM* (1981-1985) 21" 5 hp S/P BBC Cast (Frame Serial HR21-5-1019070 and up)

Thursday, January 8, 2009

2005 Honda CRV AWD makes grinding noise when turning sharply

2005 Honda CRV with only 30K miles, starts making grinding noise when turning sharply at low speed. Just past 36 month warranty period.

Turns out the rear differential oil was inferior and has to be replaced by something called dual pump II oil.

If you catch it early enough, simple oil changes will make the noise go away. (although when the dealer does it, they flush it 3 times). A differential oil change is around $99. The dual pump II oil runs around $7/L and you need 1.1 liter.

If you catch it within your warranty period (36 mo, 60K miles) Honda might service it free.
Oh yeah, they'll only do it IF there is noise.

This affects many of the CRV years, but only if you have AWD. 2WD not affected. It's all over the internet, since 2001 at least.

Honda put out a Service Bulletin #07-024 with instructions to replace the rear differential fluid and burnish the rear differential clutches. This type of service flushes the differential 3 times and costs around $399. If you buy just the parts, it might be around $70 incl. some kind of differential flushing fluid. http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A07-024.PDF

Ignore the fact that the owner's manual says to change differential fluid at 60K miles or 4 yrs. The original fluid is defective: all bets are off.

http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f12b00f/79
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f12b00f
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f12b00f/118

The true DPF longevity is about 15,000 mile, and Honda technitians know it. The TSB even suggests more frequent fluid replacements. The rear end on the Cr-V has been around since 1985 in its basic form, and always required 15,000 mile service intervals.

I leased Honda thinking it had good quality. I was SHOCKED to find that they have this Rear Differential problems in 2005, 2006 and EVEN MORE SO in 2007. You go to any Honda dealer service rep and they know about the problem but you have to ask for service and the they quietly do the work.

The design of the rear differential calls for 15,000 mile fluid changes. However, as you may know, most companies these days it is not the guys who know (engineeres and scientists) but it is the guys who count (accountants) and the puffers (marketing) that run the show. Hence the manual stating the longer intervals. Honda is trying to prolong the life of the fluid by replacing it with a Synthetic Dual Pump II, which may give it 30,000 miles, but I still doubt that 60,000 mile intervals are possible. I replace the fluid in my CR-V on an annual basis, along with semi-annual caliper slider pins lubrication, and other maintenance items...

http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t=23290&page=2&highlight=crv+rear+differential
This page says maybe only Japanese made CRVs have the problem, not US made CRVs.