RF window motor goes slowly (tired)
LF window might get stuck all the way down. (avoid opening all the way down).
Rim leaks. Walmart seals rim leaks for $10, Sears $25 (they clean inside the tire also).
avoid tight turning to the limit. (spring noise)
=======================
future work: change driver side cv axle,
replace back tires.
you could do sway bushings. maybe struts. check alignment.
known toyota issue: front strut top cap bushing noise.
starter solenoid contacts might give trouble--denso starters: well known issue. Has been repaired once.
Monday, February 1, 2010
Saturday, January 30, 2010
Friday, January 29, 2010
Mike Gerber
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124410
First of all, there is an easy test to determine if it actually is the starter contacts. The next time it fails to start, have someone hold the key in the start position while you hit the starter solenoid with a rubber mallet or a small hammer. Don't break it, just tap it a bit. If it's the contacts, this slight jarring should make the starter engage and crank over the engine.
I just replaced the starter on my 98 4 cylinder 5SFE engine a few months ago. Should be exactly the same as your's. Mine had 90,000 miles on it. It's really not too hard. Should take you about 30-45 minutes to remove it the first time you do it. Remove the battery, the battery tray and the bracket holding the cruise control on (3 bolts if I remember correctly) so you can move the cruise control out of the way. Some people like to remove the air cleaner box to give them a bit more room, but I was able to do it without removing that.
Then remove the 2 modular electrical connectors and the nut under the rubber boot holding the lead from the battery. Sometimes this boot and nut is on the front side of the starter and some times it is on the backside. It just depends on whether the car was delivered in what Toyota considers a cold weather climate. The cold weather climate cars have the boot and nut on the back side. Then there are 2 long 14MM head bolts that hold the actual starter in. The front one can be removed with just a wrench but you will need a socket and about a 4-6 inch extension to reach the back one. One this is all removed, just snake the starter out of there. You can then remove the solenoid for replacement of the brushes.
At 90,000 miles I opted to just have my whole starter professionally rebuilt. If you can find a reputable auto electrical rebuilder in your area I think this is the best way to go. IMHO, you get a better rebuild done when compared to getting an off the shelf rebuilt unit from most auto parts stores. Cost is about the same. It ran me $125. At 40,000 miles however, you may just want to replace your solenoid contacts. It's really your choice.
First of all, there is an easy test to determine if it actually is the starter contacts. The next time it fails to start, have someone hold the key in the start position while you hit the starter solenoid with a rubber mallet or a small hammer. Don't break it, just tap it a bit. If it's the contacts, this slight jarring should make the starter engage and crank over the engine.
I just replaced the starter on my 98 4 cylinder 5SFE engine a few months ago. Should be exactly the same as your's. Mine had 90,000 miles on it. It's really not too hard. Should take you about 30-45 minutes to remove it the first time you do it. Remove the battery, the battery tray and the bracket holding the cruise control on (3 bolts if I remember correctly) so you can move the cruise control out of the way. Some people like to remove the air cleaner box to give them a bit more room, but I was able to do it without removing that.
Then remove the 2 modular electrical connectors and the nut under the rubber boot holding the lead from the battery. Sometimes this boot and nut is on the front side of the starter and some times it is on the backside. It just depends on whether the car was delivered in what Toyota considers a cold weather climate. The cold weather climate cars have the boot and nut on the back side. Then there are 2 long 14MM head bolts that hold the actual starter in. The front one can be removed with just a wrench but you will need a socket and about a 4-6 inch extension to reach the back one. One this is all removed, just snake the starter out of there. You can then remove the solenoid for replacement of the brushes.
At 90,000 miles I opted to just have my whole starter professionally rebuilt. If you can find a reputable auto electrical rebuilder in your area I think this is the best way to go. IMHO, you get a better rebuild done when compared to getting an off the shelf rebuilt unit from most auto parts stores. Cost is about the same. It ran me $125. At 40,000 miles however, you may just want to replace your solenoid contacts. It's really your choice.
Camry/Bad Starter Relay?
1992 Camry/Bad Startet Relay?
I have a 1992 Camry V6. I have starting problems. Nothing happens when turn the key, but have lights & power. It is Intermittent. Even when it does happen it is usually a short time before It WILL start. I have a brand new battery and the ignition switch has been replaced. A few mechnics looked and tested and ruled out the starter and ignition safety switch. General consensus now is the starter relay. Has anyone had a similar problem, replaced a starter relay and wher is it? I was told hard to get to under the dash passenger side.... appreciate any imput
Melisa
According to the manual it looks like it's in the fuse box under the hood on the driver's side by the wheel well.
if it takes 4-5 times to crank the engine over, and it makes no noise before that (or a single "click" from the engine compartment, then your starter solenoid contacts are worn out. It's a common problem with the Denso starters, and can be fixed either with the solenoid contact kit or with a whole new starter. DIYers can replace the contacts for $20 or so, and a starter can be had for $100-150 plus labor. Most shops won't rebuild your starter for you, so don't be surprised if they only want to sell you a starter.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
I ordered a set of contacts from Roger Brown. Of course, with total disregard for the value of my own time, I actually removed my starter, noted the needed style of contacts, and reassembled and reinstalled the starter. The proper parts came promptly, but because I tightened everything up the starter worked fine (and has been working fine for the past year) I suppose my partly worn contacts were just loose. I know I have the parts around somewhere, but It would take at least an hour to dig them up.Don't waste your time like I did, if you are confortable doing this repair yourself, just order one of each (A, B, C & D) for US$19.50 and sell the unused ones back after you do the repair.
Check the connections to the starter. Solenoid wire, red power wire and ground cable for any signs of corrosion. Do the same for your battery terminals. If it looks bad, disconnect, wire brush them and re-assemble with dielectric grease.
Finally, I changed the starter solenoid contacts this weekend. But it was an effort to remove the starter. Had to remove the battery, then the air cleaner and also had to move aside the cruise control. Reused the plunger though after cleaning with a wire brush.
Before you give up on the starter check the battery & battery terminals. A bad (dirty) connection can give you click only situation. Can also be the grounding strap from the battery at the frame. Try a boost on the battery if you don't know how to check battery .
I have a 1992 Camry V6. I have starting problems. Nothing happens when turn the key, but have lights & power. It is Intermittent. Even when it does happen it is usually a short time before It WILL start. I have a brand new battery and the ignition switch has been replaced. A few mechnics looked and tested and ruled out the starter and ignition safety switch. General consensus now is the starter relay. Has anyone had a similar problem, replaced a starter relay and wher is it? I was told hard to get to under the dash passenger side.... appreciate any imput
Melisa
According to the manual it looks like it's in the fuse box under the hood on the driver's side by the wheel well.
if it takes 4-5 times to crank the engine over, and it makes no noise before that (or a single "click" from the engine compartment, then your starter solenoid contacts are worn out. It's a common problem with the Denso starters, and can be fixed either with the solenoid contact kit or with a whole new starter. DIYers can replace the contacts for $20 or so, and a starter can be had for $100-150 plus labor. Most shops won't rebuild your starter for you, so don't be surprised if they only want to sell you a starter.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
I ordered a set of contacts from Roger Brown. Of course, with total disregard for the value of my own time, I actually removed my starter, noted the needed style of contacts, and reassembled and reinstalled the starter. The proper parts came promptly, but because I tightened everything up the starter worked fine (and has been working fine for the past year) I suppose my partly worn contacts were just loose. I know I have the parts around somewhere, but It would take at least an hour to dig them up.Don't waste your time like I did, if you are confortable doing this repair yourself, just order one of each (A, B, C & D) for US$19.50 and sell the unused ones back after you do the repair.
Check the connections to the starter. Solenoid wire, red power wire and ground cable for any signs of corrosion. Do the same for your battery terminals. If it looks bad, disconnect, wire brush them and re-assemble with dielectric grease.
Finally, I changed the starter solenoid contacts this weekend. But it was an effort to remove the starter. Had to remove the battery, then the air cleaner and also had to move aside the cruise control. Reused the plunger though after cleaning with a wire brush.
Before you give up on the starter check the battery & battery terminals. A bad (dirty) connection can give you click only situation. Can also be the grounding strap from the battery at the frame. Try a boost on the battery if you don't know how to check battery .
hit with hammer; batt clamps
My camry had the same thing, sometimes it would start fine a buncha times and sometimes it would click 20 times in a row. I kept a hammer in the car and smacked the starter if it wouldn't start for a while. I replaced my starter with a remand one and everything good now.
If it's the solenoid contacts, then if you keep turning the key on and off, it'll eventually start -- those contacts don't just die suddenly, at first it takes a couple-three tries, and gradually gets worse until you get tired enough of the problem to fix it.
While you're checking the rig, check the battery voltage, especially right after you've tried to start. Usually those 4-cylinder motors will start even with a bad cell in the battery (but they'll crank pretty slowly), but it's worth checking.
also the batt. clamps really suck on toyota for some reason, and since you said you had corrosion a bad connection on the batt. could also be possible--- sometimes its more simple than you think.
I smacked the starter with a hammer and got it started
If it's the solenoid contacts, then if you keep turning the key on and off, it'll eventually start -- those contacts don't just die suddenly, at first it takes a couple-three tries, and gradually gets worse until you get tired enough of the problem to fix it.
While you're checking the rig, check the battery voltage, especially right after you've tried to start. Usually those 4-cylinder motors will start even with a bad cell in the battery (but they'll crank pretty slowly), but it's worth checking.
also the batt. clamps really suck on toyota for some reason, and since you said you had corrosion a bad connection on the batt. could also be possible--- sometimes its more simple than you think.
I smacked the starter with a hammer and got it started
Illustrated DIY of denso starter
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=319717
Websites that helped me
http://www.camrystuff.com/manuals/Gen4/Starting.pdf
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t27312.html
After doing some research on this incident I was convinced that it was definetely the solenoid contacts and plunger (for now).
This is what I bought
Electrical Cleaner Spray - $5.60
Hi Temp Grease - $3.99
Solenoid Plunger - $32.00S
solenoid Contacts both kits $25.00
This is one of the sites that may give you a better price http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/densoparts.html
Click-bzzzz sounds more like a borderline battery. Was it doing this after you replaced the battery? CLICK-CLICK-CLICK-CLICK-start is classic worn contacts. If you don't want to twiddle thumbs, you can yank the starter, pull the contacts, and put the ends next to each other -- worn contacts look like a stairstep, with the eroded part lower than the rest of the contact. If you carefully file down the higher eroded contact so that it matches the height of the lower eroded contact (just the eroded area, not the entire contact), you can eke a bit more time out of those contacts. Not something I recommend long-term, but it's an option. While you've got them out, take a picture of the contacts (different Denso starters have different contacts) and write down the part number of the starter. You might be able to call around to electric motor repair places (or, even better, a place that specializes in starter repair), and score a couple of contacts from there.
Websites that helped me
http://www.camrystuff.com/manuals/Gen4/Starting.pdf
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t27312.html
After doing some research on this incident I was convinced that it was definetely the solenoid contacts and plunger (for now).
This is what I bought
Electrical Cleaner Spray - $5.60
Hi Temp Grease - $3.99
Solenoid Plunger - $32.00S
solenoid Contacts both kits $25.00
This is one of the sites that may give you a better price http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/densoparts.html
Click-bzzzz sounds more like a borderline battery. Was it doing this after you replaced the battery? CLICK-CLICK-CLICK-CLICK-start is classic worn contacts. If you don't want to twiddle thumbs, you can yank the starter, pull the contacts, and put the ends next to each other -- worn contacts look like a stairstep, with the eroded part lower than the rest of the contact. If you carefully file down the higher eroded contact so that it matches the height of the lower eroded contact (just the eroded area, not the entire contact), you can eke a bit more time out of those contacts. Not something I recommend long-term, but it's an option. While you've got them out, take a picture of the contacts (different Denso starters have different contacts) and write down the part number of the starter. You might be able to call around to electric motor repair places (or, even better, a place that specializes in starter repair), and score a couple of contacts from there.
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